You get case, fan, switch, fan PSU and bags of nuts, bolts, washers and wire. What could possibly go wrong?
Let’s get the link out of the way – this is the Ruideng official store. You’ll find the 5005 and other supplies there.
I started at 9am this morning with a box full of tricks and a case, grabbed coffee and armed the stopwatch.
By 9:15am I’d read the instructions (part Chinese, part English) sufficiently to know what I had to do – so I opened up the box. Notice who spotless that case top is – it won’t stay that way, so enjoy.
All very organised I have to say and the parts and case are high quality. Just as well if you’re planning in banging out up to 250 watts!
The first thing I did was to fit the fan and the little board at the back which handles the on-off switch and the fan power, along with the on-off switch itself.
WRONG – wire up the board FIRST, THEN fit it (15 minutes lost).
The wires are fairly thick so you’ll need the soldering iron turned up. Not got a soldering iron? Stop at this point.
So that little board you see above, note the bottom right – red-black wires – they go to the fan. On the left, top to bottom – the output (thick wires) to the control board, then in the middle the two wires going to the on-off switch and finally the bottom two wires that say 5v +/- well, they go to the fan. That’s it for that board which mounts directly on the input banana sockets.
Here’s another view of the board – front is to the right – I’ve already pushed in the display panel and attached the connectors – all very easily and precisely I may add.
And here below is the unit with a lot more assembly… you can see the two ribbon cables (impossible to get wrong) connecting the front display panel to the actual controller…. then the thick red and black power lines. Note the fan on the main controller and of course the fan I fitted to the case.
And here, above is the completed power supply, no bodging, all very substantial – works a TREAT… but two things I’d like to point out.
The first – entirely my fault – this is an aluminium case and therefore easy to scratch. I turned the unit upside down to tighten some screws and of course I had some shrapnel on the bench which has scratched the case. Lesson: put some paper or a cloth down there when you’re working!
The second – well, when I tested the unit in open air all seemed fine – but now that it is running with the case closed, I can hear that fan clearly – louder for example than the Korad KA3005D supply that is currently providing DC power to this little unit.
I checked to see which fan was making the most noise. Result… the one on the back panel – you can’t hear the fan on the main board (or maybe it only comes on under full load). The back panel fan however is on all the time. Not wanting to try to change a surface mount resistor as advised elsewhere, I simply put a pair of IN4001 diodes in series with the fan which has brought the noise to a more sensible level.
I love it, it’s a cute supply – I could see them all over the place (I have another pair of differently rated units but no cases which limits their usability). Has anyone put one of these together and noticed the fan noise? I’m sure it can be improved and this is a minor comment on an otherwise excellent little power supply. See the original blog for actual operation. Essentially you can control voltage (in this case up to 50v assuming you have 55v DC powering the unit (I plan to put my solar kit at 30+volts onto it back in Spain) and you can also limit the maximum current up to 5 amps. There is also an output on/off button bottom right. You have memories and LCD brightness control – but look at original blog for more on that.
Standing current is around 90ma (in my case at 20v input). Note that the output voltage has to be higher than the input voltage. Like others, the unit claims maximum voltage output of 50v – but also claims maximum input of 50v – so really the maximum output will be a volt or so less than that.
All in all I spent about 3 hours putting that unit together. Time well spent.