EleksMaker Pro Laser Engraver

Update November 10 2018

After much delay and I have to say patience from Banggood, I have now put together this excellent A3 laser engraving machine. Originally, a 500mW module arrived complete with its own power supply (the laser which was not included in the basic kit). It turns out that was the wrong laser and now I have the 2300mW violet laser complete with upgraded 2.5A power supply. In the photo you also see the (important) green protective glasses that came with the kit.

Cutting door signs with Eleksmaker

With help from my friend Aidan who has extensive experience with 3D printers and similar, we’re now putting together some Perspex door signs for bedrooms at Willow Cottage using the Eleksmaker (more pics soon, Sylvan Azure and Occitane are the bedroom names for the dooe signs).

Update: See this video on upgrading the engraver.


It is important to note that this engraver is not a toy. Never fire up without the glasses and also be wary of reflective surfaces when the laser is on. It is powerful enough to do damage (obviously, it is used for engraving).

Laser Engraver

And here it is, up and running at last. I have some cardboard in there and clearly the unit has the capacity to engrave, however, it came out with vague edges so I initially had some focusing to do.

Seemed like a good idea relying on mobile signals instead of high speed broadband for a week or so before heading off to Spain… well,, it SEEMED a good idea at the time, but now I’ve used some considerable downloads to get this laser set up precisely.


Attempt 1. Very small text (14pt in computer printer terms). Came out in reverse, but even using the LOW setting on the laser thinking I might test paper for speed, I managed to go clean through half a dozen sheets. Clearly I need to master the use of speed. However, everything worked and now I know there is no shortage of available power or, indeed, resolution.

Sitting on a box, this A3 engraver has yet to be tidied up but if you want promotion pictures there are lots of websites for that.


The important thing is, this photo shows the complete Banggood-supplied EleksMaker Laser Engraver and NOW I have some decent software to run with the laser (which does not have microswitch end stops before you ask – I may add those later. I have a copy of Lightburn 0.7.02 which works a treat for me on Windows 10 64 bit. The LightBurn company were VERY helpful when I had questions.


Note July 15 2018 – I note that Banggood have the laser engraver on offer. https://www.banggood.com/collection-6286.html?utm_design=136&utm_source=emarsys&utm_medium=mail_ele06_prefer&utm_campaign=newsletter%E2%80%94emarsys&utm_content=winna&sc_src=email_3112987&sc_eh=e375077fc58ebb7d1&sc_llid=75622&sc_lid=121443699&sc_uid=sBhI5Zx9FB

Essentially the unit comes as a well-packed set of 3 motors, various aluminium tubes, a host of pre-cut Perspex pieces and an unfeasible number of nuts, bolts, retainers, wheels and various spacers. I opened the box maybe 9am Friday morning and spent the rest of the day constructing.

At first it all looks a little daunting but that apprehension soon goes away, It did not take long to reach the stage where a whole table was needed to hold all the parts but by mid-day I’d cracked the back of this. I also broke one of the Perspex fastener/tensioners however.  Thank heavens for Gorilla glue. I hope it is strong enough. Seems to be up to now, days later.

Two of the three motors move the laser assembly forward and backward (left and right sides). The third motor is mounted with the laser and moves the latter left and right.

No documentation came with the unit but the Banggood site has construction info, software and drivers. What you see here are my own photos, in the link below, you’ll see the construction photos available, which I used to help me assemble the unit. The images in their docs are good but I was left in doubt as to where to mount the small electronic control box on the front aluminium support beam because other suppliers showed the box mounted vertically whereas in the Banggood-supplied revision, the box mounts horizontally. This box needs some trivial assembly which only takes a few minutes. I do not have detailed wiring information but it looks fairly simple. A power supply is provided. No info as to whether to mount this somewhere or leave lying on the bench (unless I missed something).  Similarly (now the laser is here) I’ve no idea where to put its supply but I’ll figure that out as I go along.


Perspex motor support


Perspex parts

Perspex tensioners and box of wheels and assorted nuts and bolts

Assorted parts

Motors and drive structures slide along Aluminium rods

Assembled one of 3 motors and support structure

Perspex fastener/tensioner

In the process of building to the kit, I assembled six of these small Perspex end-pieces, held in place by one large bolt and holding and tensioning the belt (two per belt).

One failed during construction. I am hoping this will be replaced, meanwhile I’ve had a go at a Gorilla glue repair. Note: this seems to be holding.

Laser Mount

Laser mount

Laser mount in assembly with drive motor

Completed laser/motor assembly minus laser

And here it is, assembled (stock photo as my temporary workspace isn’t this neat (and the battery on my substitute phone is, as usual, flat – doesn’t quite last the day – I’m on a learning kick about battery charging right now). Typical of demo photos, the wires are not attached in the photo below.

(Mostly) asssembled laser engraver

Note that the above assembled photo is from Banggood. Other suppliers may have a different photo as clearly, final construction varies in different revisions as happened with the laser printer. If you are assembling one of these, make sure you follow the instructions provided by the people you buy it from and not just randomly from the web. In other revisions the electronics panel is mounted vertically and the corner supports are completely different. I found this out the hard way.

Finalising wiring and mounting the laser took half an hour in total which makes for 8 hours construction. Then there is the software, on my Windows 10 PC I tried the standard software which seemed buggy to the point of being unusable but thanks to blog readers I discovered LightBurn which (see above, using on my 64 bit Windows) seems to work a treat. That software is also available on other platforms. Simple text, shapes and images take no time or expertise to set up and burn.

My short demo video here: https://youtu.be/iiOCjXQ2tZo

EleksMaker® EleksLaser-A3 Pro Laser Engraving Machine --  https://goo.gl/3gJux8
405nm 500mW Blue Laser Module With Heat Sink --  https://goo.gl/9Hcwkz
2300mW Blue Laser Module  -- https://goo.gl/ugbCtY
Wholesale Laser Equipment --  https://goo.gl/dxKCGT
off Wholesale Electronics (EU Warehouse)--  https://goo.gl/djjBMa (code: EUELE10)


37 thoughts on “EleksMaker Pro Laser Engraver

  1. Hi Peter,

    I have a similar Laser kit i have been playing around with and its pretty okay, I will warn you it takes a little while to get the whole thing dialled in to your liking.
    My tool chain for making a useful laser cut is the following
    inkscape plugin that converts it to gcode
    Lasergrbl g-code sender
    if you are after a bit more info i highly recommend watching tech2c videos about mounting a laser module on his 3d printer

        1. These cutters use diode lasers, which you can get up to about the 5W range on Aliexpress in that form factor, though they are expensive and unreliable above about 2W because of heat. That's more than enough to actually cut things like wood and some acrylics, not just engrave. They're legal (under USA law at least) as long as they have the proper labeling, but they *dangerous*. You *must* have proper safety glasses and having an enclosure is also a good idea because the reflected laser light can still blind you and start fires. Ventilation is also important, a lot of stuff releases toxic vapors. Even some natural woods release harmful chemicals, not to mention chemically treated woods and acrylics. Laser cutters/engravers are really useful, but they are pretty dangerous tools that need to be treated with a lot of care.

          Even more powerful lasers are still legal. You can get a 40W CO2 laser cutter for something like $500, but those are quite different from what Peter is talking about.

  2. If you fancy untethering it from your PC have a look at LaserWeb. You can run this on a Raspberry Pi (maybe other SBCs too) and give it a web interface where you can upload image/design files and does the job of converting to Gcode etc.

      1. Thanks for that. As it happens I also need to get some info from the company as I appear to have no control over the laser, i.e. on-off, dimming. It has a fixed supply and no control cable. That needs sorting.

        1. Looking at the Banggood page, the questions say it does not have any dimming control. Perhaps you can splice in a MOSFET between the power brick and the laser module and use that, depending on how the laser's internal circuitry is constructed. You'd probably want to disconnect the fan and wire it to the power supply separately in that case so that it's always on.

          Or, if you only want on/off control a relay would suffice. That'd probably be sufficient, you can just vary the dwell time to change the depth of cut.

  3. This probably my next purchase, a CNC cutter/engraver. Not necessarily this one, but something. Thanks for the review. Give one a starting point.

    PS, How did your Tevo Tarantula fair?

    1. It did well, but the final part of the review, actual testing was delayed thanks to the combination of a stroke from which I'm still recovering and an abortive house move which we're still working on. Aidan is going to give it a good test soon.


      1. I'm still amazed as how you, recovering from a stroke, can do much more work than me without a stroke.
        Maybe I had a stroke of "fiaca" (laziness in Argentine slang), a few years ago...

    1. I've informed banggood about your proposed laser. I need to be able to have the program turn the laser on and off, not that bothered about dimming but if not controlled by software I may as well just put a live match on the table.

  4. Hi Peter,

    I'm not sure if the controller is GRBL based or not, if it is then I'd highly recommend this software - https://lightburnsoftware.com it works well, good UI and is very affordable, give the trial version a go.

    Disclaimer: I'm a happy paying user of the software and have no other affiliated links with the company

  5. Hi Peter,

    I second the LightBurn notion above. It does in milliseconds what could take half an hour in LaserWeb4. It's better for your heart, really.
    I have a comparable non-ttl laser and hooked it up via a $2 MOSFET module. Now I can switch it on and off in software, and it even works for PWM-ing down the power. (Smoothieware based controller, but it should make no difference).
    It's this board: https://www.banggood.com/0-24V-Top-Mosfet-Button-IRF520-MOS-Driver-Module-For-Arduino-MCU-ARM-Raspberry-Pi-p-1292498.html
    Make sure you order some more; I have two boards which needed a replacement FET. They only fail under load, not when checking with a volt meter! Check with a motor or fan or something when in doubt.
    Random tip: instead of a honeycomb I'm using an old air conditioning radiator ("condensor") from a car which I got for free from the air conditioning guys' dumpster.


    PS Gijs sent me your way.

    1. Thanks. The engraver handles pwm so no new hardware needed but it does seem up to now that the Windows software is naff. Test images crash the package, text is reversed and using the reverse button hangs the software. I don't want to use command line software (Windows 10 64 bit) so I assume my choices are limited?

      1. Please try the LightBurn 30 day trial. It beats the crap out of inkscape -> dxf2gcode -> bcnc or inkscape -> draftsight -> bcnc, noticing your units are messed up, saving your svg as dxf with px units and doing the rescale rain dance.
        (but remember dxf2gcode because it has an overcut feature for vinyl drag knives!)
        I hoped LaserWeb4 was the solution to all this but it's EXCRUCIATINGLY slow, resource hogging and prone to die after waiting for many minutes. For simple vectors, raster engraving and live control of your machine it does kind of work. Give it a try.

        Also nice for engraving dithered pictures: StippleGen2. The output completely kills LaserWeb4 though.

        PS sorry for the vanity, apparently this was not the way to upload an icon. Also completely failed at removing my mugshot.

    2. Thank you Stephen and Niels - and thanks to all for comments. I now have the 30 day trial of LightBurn - 64-bit version for Windows. After selecting the right driver, it works a TREAT.

        1. Sure, just turn the power to 100% and select a lower speed. Just enter the correct numbers for your setup. I think there's also an option for multiple passes in combination with z axis stepdown, not tried that yet. You can try the fully functioning demo for 30 days. It made me happy. 🙂

  6. Hi Pete et al.

    I was wondering if this sort of device would be of any use for cutting fabric? I understand man-made fabrics might be prone to melting rather than a clean cut but natural fibres could work.

    I'm thinking of building something for my wife so she could cut fabric shapes she uses for her quilting hobby.

    1. I've had success cutting wool felt with a laser (40W C02, rather than diode, but I could run it at very low power and very fast speed and still cut it fine, so it should be fine with a 2300mW). It really, really stinks though!

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