Feed

  • DrFragle and MrShark A Blitzwolf Blitz with Tasmota and Tuya Convert by DrFragle and MrShark: as far as bin file is below 512k, should be fine... gpios assignments are on blakadder site for tons of devices Feb 23, 21:28
  • A Blitzwolf Blitz with Tasmota and Tuya Convert by TD-er: Hmm, maybe I should also take a look at this Tuya-Convert for ESPEasy. Feb 23, 21:17
  • BigTimer by Phil: did you come up with a suitable function ?? before I try to reinvent the wheel Feb 23, 21:10
  • Peter Scargill First Solar Lamp of 2020 by Peter Scargill: I've tried various tapes and compounds - I'm always ready to listen to good ideas - keep em coming - but nothing I've tried to date both remains clear and LASTS. I'm trying WD-40 now. Feb 23, 16:37
  • First Solar Lamp of 2020 by Sergio Faustino: Well, since I'm in Portugal in the Algarve, I think I can relate to the intense sun issue The main issue with these specific solar lights is that the 18650 inside is a recycled one (left over bits of the connection strip still connected) and so will most likely only last a few months at most unless you do what I did and change it for a good one. Anyway, a box with a 18650 and support, room for an additional 18650 with support and a esp8266, a solar cell, a lithium solar charger, a movement sensor and a LED plate that gives a decent light for 5 euros? I would say you get a very good return on your money Feb 23, 15:29
  • Peter Scargill First Solar Lamp of 2020 by Peter Scargill: The big difference between various models is often whether or no they can stand up to the environment. I sometimes wonder if it ever rains in China as I'd say well over half of the solar lighs I've bought over the last couple of years have failed due to to the weather - mostly rain in the UK and Spain, the odd one through intense sun in Spain. Feb 23, 15:14
  • First Solar Lamp of 2020 by Sergio Faustino: I did it on a cheap solar light (https://sulion.es/8423-large_default/neko.jpg which can sometimes be found at 5 Euros on sale in shop) and after adding a second 18650, can confirm the esp8266 is working 24/7 with no issues, updating thingspeak every 2 minutes with the current battery voltage. Next step is adding a mosfet to a GPIO so I can remote control the LED lights. Feb 22, 23:10
  • Eachen WiFi IR Universal Remote by Silla Rizzoli: It works, thank you! I had to remove the outer case to increase the range, this thing is not engineered very well, I barely get 4 meters of range... Feb 22, 10:12
  • DrFragle and MrShark Eachen WiFi IR Universal Remote by DrFragle and MrShark: copy the json you get when you press the AC key from tasmota console, and send it back using the IRSEND command Feb 22, 09:17
  • Eachen WiFi IR Universal Remote by Silla Rizzoli: Hello, I noticed that there is a precompiled binary dedicated to IR devices, that one seems to perfectly understand the commands sent from my daikin remote! I'm still trying to understand HOW to send the commands, however... This is a lot of fun, thanks for your help! 🙂 Feb 22, 08:59
  • DrFragle and MrShark A Blitzwolf Blitz with Tasmota and Tuya Convert by DrFragle and MrShark: no need to solder anything: i've all of them, all hacked in less than half an hour (in total, time to flash a fresh raspbian buster and download the needed sw from github) using Tuya-Convert 2.3... all fully working with tasmota, power metering included 🙂 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dt5-iZc4_qU Feb 22, 08:33
  • Barbudor Eachen WiFi IR Universal Remote by Barbudor: Sorry I missed that detail 👍 Feb 22, 08:02
  • DrFragle and MrShark Eachen WiFi IR Universal Remote by DrFragle and MrShark: did you need special features missing in stock binaries? Look at the BUILDS.md file on tasmota site to see what's included in each of them... it's very rare you need to compile a bin file yourself, these days... i had to do to add a capacitive touch keypad mpr121, recently, but other than that, very few other times... Feb 22, 07:15
  • DrFragle and MrShark Eachen WiFi IR Universal Remote by DrFragle and MrShark: all previous builds are on the thehackbox ARCHIVE link i gave in an other comment down here and for IR, there's a specific binary with addon features, always on thehackbox site Feb 22, 07:13
  • Peter Scargill Eachen WiFi IR Universal Remote by Peter Scargill: Oh, sorry - I said "somewhere here" then forgot to include the link - still - looks like it is all sorted. Feb 22, 00:03
  • Eachen WiFi IR Universal Remote by Silla Rizzoli: I used gitpod to compile 8.1.0.9 and it works! Thank you! 🙂 Feb 21, 22:55
  • Barbudor Eachen WiFi IR Universal Remote by Barbudor: AFAIK dev versions are not archived, only releases + latest dev. If you need a specific version you need to pull the right code and recompile it by yourself. There are some easy ways to do so using one of: - Jason's Portable VSC+platformIO - Blakadder's docker-tasmota - gitpod But there are little reasons to get a specific version. Get the latest and you will get latest version of IR library Feb 21, 22:45
  • Barbudor Eachen WiFi IR Universal Remote by Barbudor: Hi Peter, apart from Tasmota-lite, all other firmwares are too big to be upgraded in a single shot and you need to go through tasmota-minimal. If you upgrade OTA from the hackbox this is transparent. If you upgrade OTA from you own web server, you must have tasmota-minimal.bin in the same folder as the new firmware you want to upgrade and it will be transparent too. If you upgrade through the web GUI you must manually upgrade to minimal then upgrade to your final firmware. Hope this helps. Feb 21, 22:41
  • Peter Scargill Eachen WiFi IR Universal Remote by Peter Scargill: You will need to ask the Tasmota guys where to get that - the current version of Tasmota is 8.1.0.9 - strangely I have a couple of units that point blank refuse to upgrade from 8..0.3 - I have no idea why. Somewhere here perhaps? Feb 21, 22:21
  • DrFragle and MrShark Eachen WiFi IR Universal Remote by DrFragle and MrShark: scrolling down in this page: http://thehackbox.org/tasmota/archive/ Feb 21, 22:21
  • Eachen WiFi IR Universal Remote by Silla Rizzoli: Hello, where can I download a binary of tasmota 8.1.0.3? Thanks! Feb 21, 21:33
  • Peter Scargill Teckin SP23 Smart Socket + Tuya-Convert by Peter Scargill: Glad what you have works. That may be of help to others. Feb 21, 17:38
  • DrFragle and MrShark Teckin SP23 Smart Socket + Tuya-Convert by DrFragle and MrShark: worth a try... https://www.hackster.io/news/teardown-of-a-smart-plug-or-two-6462bd2f275b https://github.com/arendst/Tasmota/wiki/Gosund-SP1 Feb 21, 16:03
  • Teckin SP23 Smart Socket + Tuya-Convert by Mark Rennie: Thank you! I can confirm these are flashable and work 100% perfectly.. Thanks again "If UK, unfortunately I have no idea if the Gosund UK model are still ESP. But at 10.99GBP a piece it may be worth to try : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gosund-Amazon-Monitoring-Function-Required/dp/B07VVBH76Y/! Feb 21, 15:54
  • Raspberry Pi 4 and SSD – Miracles at Last? by DavidVT: Regarding backups, Take a look at this post. I used his scripts for years and was never disappointed. It is a long read but the scripts did work well. Note: I have not used this recently so do not know if it was kept up to date. http://sysmatt.blogspot.com/2014/08/backup-restore-customize-and-clone-your.html?m=1 Feb 21, 12:02
  • Raspberry Pi 4 and SSD – Miracles at Last? by DavidVT: Graham’s project works elsewhere as does Peter’s. I am running Graham’s on proxmox at the moment as a test and thus no Pi involved to fail. I will go back to the Pi eventually. My point there are other ways around the sdcard. Any yes I also use the old way on an older Pi used for streaming to boot sdcard and run from USB. Has worked for years. Feb 21, 11:50
  • DrFragle and MrShark Raspberry Pi 4 and SSD – Miracles at Last? by DrFragle and MrShark: great alternative to do backups of your data, multiplatform (linux, windows, mobile): SYNCTHING... it has cli, gui and web interfaces... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNiiJe8NpEw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bHdcfVzrgk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFh27uPsYRw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXSYKsYI1Zo Feb 21, 08:19
  • DrFragle and MrShark Raspberry Pi 4 and SSD – Miracles at Last? by DrFragle and MrShark: i think it's actually doable... lots of info here: https://www.instructables.com/id/New-Raspberry-Pi-4-USB-30-Personal-Cloud-With-RAID/ https://www.ricmedia.com/build-raspberry-pi3-raid-nas-server/amp/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYvUQXfiTz8 Feb 20, 20:53
  • Peter Scargill Teckin SP23 Smart Socket + Tuya-Convert by Peter Scargill: I will keep looking - but after that experience with Teckin I won't go there again. I noted that TP-Link have some similar stuff, I've asked for a sample of the UK version and am waiting for an answer. Feb 20, 17:10
  • Teckin SP23 Smart Socket + Tuya-Convert by Rob McDougall: I just found this post after naively going ahead and buying a 4-pack of SP23's. Can confirm they're as the photo above, marked "bad" with the extra "chin" on the back. Very annoying as I spent hours trying to figure out what I was doing wrong on my Pi! Will continue searching for something suitable, look forward to hearing if any of you find something that works in the UK. Feb 20, 16:58
  • DrFragle and MrShark Raspberry Pi 4 and SSD – Miracles at Last? by DrFragle and MrShark: where's the most of your stuff? I suppose in /home... so, the easier way is just a tarball of that (and /etc) to put elsewhere... there are a lot of options for backing up, if you are "in place" where the device is, or you can easily reach it to swap some sdcars... an easy: sudo tar cvzfp /opt/myhome.tgz /home/pi for example... or using rsync on a network share... or try the already available (in beta) network boot for rpi4, and have it without ANY sdcard, but you'll need a separate device which shares an nfs folder via pxe+tfboot... Feb 20, 16:02
  • DrFragle and MrShark Raspberry Pi 4 and SSD – Miracles at Last? by DrFragle and MrShark: why not just a second sdcard to keep attached via an usb dongle and to keep in sync once a day... in case of problems, just swap them... if you don't make lots of updates, even once per week... Feb 20, 15:57
  • DrFragle and MrShark Raspberry Pi 4 and SSD – Miracles at Last? by DrFragle and MrShark: as in comics: "mumble mumble"... (brain gears rolling and a lamp over the head)... i was thinking about linux software raid, connecting 2 different ssd and have them replicate one each other... have to search... Feb 20, 15:50
  • Peter Scargill Raspberry Pi 4 and SSD – Miracles at Last? by Peter Scargill: Hi Bruce - there will be those who wonder why I bang on about this. You are of couse right - RPICLONE makes backups a doddle - but putting them in place when you are thousands of miles away from the PI is a big problem. I had a helpful not-that-technical neighbour in Spain (actually a good friend) send me the PI to the UK where I checked the backup (using that little Friendlyarm OpenWrt router as a pretend Spain network) and shipped it back. Hardly convenient though. I'm pondering the idea of a second identical Pi, both on Sonoff Basics + Tasmota - on normally off, the other normally on. Any thoughs/ideas most welcome. Feb 20, 14:59
  • Raspberry Pi 4 and SSD – Miracles at Last? by Bruce Calder: I agree that mass storage should have been more of a priority long ago. I developed an automation system for my business using node-red running on a Pi 3+ and a micro SD card. It works great and it's pretty stable but twice in 6 months the SD card died. This wasn't a big problem since I was doing regular data backups and had saved images of the SD card, which isn't a big deal since the card was only 8gb. Since then I have replaced the SD card with an SSD module and things got way more stable. It's been running nearly a year with no issues. My question is, how can I backup my pi image without backing up the whole SSD card. Backing up 128Gb is not trivial and seems like there must be a better way. Does anyone know how to do a full backup of just the contents of the pi image? Feb 20, 14:50
  • Bob Green High Power Mains Switching with Sonoff by Bob Green: That video highlights the potential dangers of switching high current loads. It is not just the steady state current that has to be considered but the inrush current also which can be 5 to 7 times the steady state current. Other factors are the open gap of the relay contacts and the ability of the contacts to break the current flow when opening. The other item mentioned was smoke alarms, whether it links to Home Assistant openHab or any other home automation system is IRRELEVANT! The key criterion are that it must be utterly reliable, work totally independently of any external factor and be able to be heard all over the house. The latter point may be achieved by multiple wireless or mains wired linked modules. A smoke alarm could save the life of you and your family and prevent your house being burnt down! Please do not buy cheap smoke alarms. In the Uk AICO are one of the best makes, not cheap but neither is a funeral or re-building a house. In UK rented properties linked smoke alarms properly located are a legal requirement. Feb 20, 10:52
  • Bob Green Raspberry Pi 4 and SSD – Miracles at Last? by Bob Green: Leo, why on earth buy SSD's fron China? I just bought three from Amazon UK. One was 120Gb Kingston A400 (£18.00) and two Crucial 120 GB models one was £20.00, the other £22.00. The prices increased over two days. Point is one can buy top quality products for little money and easy return if they are faulty. The SSD is so critical to the Pi reliability, I cannot see the point of using cheaper less well known devices. I believe you are in the Netherlands so Amazon as a supplier is likely not a problem. Feb 20, 10:38
  • Raspberry Pi 4 and SSD – Miracles at Last? by Leo van der Hoek: At the moment I am trying to make a system as a copy of Pete's ingredients. It is however largely different. You have to jump quite a number of hoops to get a backup to Google Drive. Needs quite some changes to system files, additions of them. So this does not fit into the advertized way of a backup because thes e fall outside the volumes and oar not included in the backup script. Still a lot of study. However Node-RED is fully functional after a short time. It is now running on a pi3B+ with a 2,5 inch HD. SSD on order from China. Just fun to lear a little bit more of linux things, but feels like learning a trick to a monkey. Feb 20, 09:47
  • Teckin SP23 Smart Socket + Tuya-Convert by Mark Rennie: thanks both.. I am in the UK so might take a punt on the SP111 thanks. I did buy 4 Teckins on ebay this week that said they were the monitoring versions.. be aware people on there are selling them but arranging postage from Amazon! aka the new ones. Feb 20, 08:08
  • Barbudor Teckin SP23 Smart Socket + Tuya-Convert by Barbudor: Mark, if you are in EU I would recommend Gosund SP111 available on AMZ. Converted 8 of those in January. If UK, unfortunately I have no idea if the Gosund UK model are still ESP. But at 10.99GBP a piece it may be worth to try : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gosund-Amazon-Monitoring-Function-Required/dp/B07VVBH76Y/ Feb 20, 07:59
  • Peter Scargill Teckin SP23 Smart Socket + Tuya-Convert by Peter Scargill: The price was good - but so fwe people got the original version which changed witout a change in product name - that really is not on - personally I'm back to using Sonoffs unless I actually need the plug/socket arrangement - but I've talked about other similar products in the blog. We just need to keep looking... The Gosund links I have for the UK are now dead, I need to replace those - I'll do that now. Meanwhile, Bangood recently sent me some EU-style Blitzwolf units... Meanwhile I have Banggood links for Blitzwolf BW-SHP6 and BW-SHP7 - I have yet to give these a hammering. These are EU fitting. BlitzWolf® BW-SHP6 10A EU Plug Metering Version WIFI Smart Socket -- http://bit.ly/33zZq1E and BlitzWolf® BW-SHP7 16A 2 IN 1 Remote Controller -- http://bit.ly/2NZCRg6 Feb 20, 07:47
  • Teckin SP23 Smart Socket + Tuya-Convert by Mark Rennie: What are the best replacements for these please? i've not found anything that is close on performance or cost. Cheers Feb 19, 22:59
  • DrFragle and MrShark High Power Mains Switching with Sonoff by DrFragle and MrShark: ALWAYS be careful... look at what happened to this guy using a sonoff pow r2 connected to water heater... just at beginning of video, which btw is worth a full watching 🙂 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U245PWQ_yOQ Feb 19, 19:18
  • Peter Scargill Raspberry Pi 4 and SSD – Miracles at Last? by Peter Scargill: Oh well, it's nice to get credit and NOT be called grandfather for a change 🙂 Feb 19, 12:06
  • Raspberry Pi 4 and SSD – Miracles at Last? by Andreas Spiess: It is not by chance that Graham's project resembles Peter's script. I actually asked him to include all the goodies Peter's script includes. So, Peter (and Antonio) definitively are the fathers of this project. Feb 19, 09:12
  • Bob Green Raspberry Pi 4 and SSD – Miracles at Last? by Bob Green: Antonio, I second your comments about Graham Garners excellent work. IMHO it gives the best of both worlds because if you run some of his containers outside Hass.iO he includes volumes with a /data directory that is accessible from outside the container. In my specific case I run Node-RED outside Hass.IO in a container, from Node-RED I write data into a database in the Node-RED volume. I can then access the stored data from anywhere on my network. I know one could add volumes to containers in Hass.IO if one knew how to - I don't! I found Graham Garner's set up very easy and I think it is the closest containerized set up to Peter's scripted set up. Feb 18, 16:27
  • DrFragle and MrShark Raspberry Pi 4 and SSD – Miracles at Last? by DrFragle and MrShark: problem Pete has is that he has a VERY COMPLEX setup, so moving from his actual distro (raspbian) to dietpi or anything else is not as easy... otherwise, for sure the best option will be to move to a containerized setup, as i did: this way you can easily backup/restore snapshots and data, and even move to new hardware, even of different architecture, in a breeze... G.C. Garner did an EXCELLENT job in porting almost everything Pete's script does to Docker, including backup scripts and other cool stuff... take a look at Andreas' video about it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6mjt8tWUws and at gcgarner project: https://github.com/gcgarner/IOTstack personally i use HASSIO as a base and all the other stuff using its own addons, all integrated... Feb 18, 10:53
  • Brian Orpin Raspberry Pi 4 and SSD – Miracles at Last? by Brian Orpin: I've had real problems with rootfs on both an HDD and SSD using DietPi in the last month. I think it is a kernel problem. But yes, the DietPi utility to mount drives and move the rootfs or user data is really good. Feb 18, 08:05
  • Raspberry Pi 4 and SSD – Miracles at Last? by Sandro: Personally I use dietpi, which has a simple menù to move root to external sub disk/pen. Feb 17, 23:05
  • Oliver Peters Raspberry Pi 4 and SSD – Miracles at Last? by Oliver Peters: You hit the point on all important arguments. Feb 17, 15:35
  • Peter Scargill Blitzwolf BW-HL2 Smart Watch by Peter Scargill: It lookls leathery on the outside but the inside is clearly some kind of synthetic. I've had umpteen real leather straps that look great but crease badly after a while so I'm not sure which I prefer. Feb 17, 15:01
  • Blitzwolf BW-HL2 Smart Watch by Johathan Deller: Is the strap real leather or PU leather ? Feb 17, 13:36
  • DrFragle and MrShark Raspberry Pi 4 and SSD – Miracles at Last? by DrFragle and MrShark: you can move your actual installation to usb or ssd using same procedure... the way Andreas did (using partition IDs instead of device) makes it more SECURE: if you attach 2 usb dongles, rpi could mess around swapping device names (sdb and sdc, for example) depending on the order IT decides to recognize and name them... with part IDs, you don't have this problem, the id is in the partition itself and it's always the same wherever you attach that disk... just do as he did, install a brand new raspbian on an usb or ssd drive, then just empty the new partition and copy your boot part to the fat32 part, and the ext4 data to the second part (using rsync, for example)... i did this many times in the past on rpi3, no problems... Andreas method is nothing new (actually it's been on raspberry forums for more than 2 years, now: https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=196778 ), but works and the sd card is used in readonly mode just on boot time, so it will last forever... Feb 17, 08:58
  • Raspberry Pi 4 and SSD – Miracles at Last? by JCinGreece: I bought a Pi4 in January and found James Chambers blog while googling for SSD boot. I've had it running with a very second hand SSD for a month now, no problems. I'm trying to use this as a desktop, so it does get powered off/on a couple of times a day. Next step is to replace an old Pi2 running WeeWx weather station (lots of read/writes) and I might try copying the existing card, fingers crossed! PS will you be hit by the 90 days in 180 rule spending time in Spain after 31.12.20? In the process of becoming resident in Greece while we can.... Feb 17, 06:52
  • Peter Scargill Blitzwolf BW-HL2 Smart Watch by Peter Scargill: Colour changes I think. Pete. Feb 17, 06:01
  • Blitzwolf BW-HL2 Smart Watch by jan schepers: I wonder, how do the sensors for bloodpressure and oxygen percentage work? Is that reliable? Feb 17, 00:42
  • Peter Scargill BigTimer by Peter Scargill: Simply add a funtion node on the end if you want no output if off Feb 16, 23:01
  • BigTimer by Rui Caeiro: Hi Peter, I have a quick question. Is it possible to have the BigTimer outputting nothing during "Off Time" times, even if there is an ON or OFF in the input? I only get no output when the status of the timer is "No Action Today", but if the status is "Off for x hours", if I input an Auto or OFF, I get an output. The idea is to have no output at any "OFF Time" period. Is this possible? Thanks Rui Feb 16, 22:57
  • Peter Scargill NanoPi R2S OpenWrt miniRouter – great for testing by Peter Scargill: In the UK, that EA4500 on Ebay was around £25 second hand - neither new nor tiny so you can't really compare. Feb 16, 22:44
  • Bob Green Xiaomi ZAJIA Auto-sense IR Induction Water Saver by Bob Green: If I understand you correctly when you say 'my control control relay fails', i take that to mean a device you have made using a Sonoff or something similar rather than an integral part of the LG system. I have seen an issue with an ESP32 in circumstances where electrical noise was present. A VDR might help but I would also consider two other options. If possible I would change the mechanical relay for a solid state device and secondly I would site the relay module away from the ESP8266. To achieve the latter I would Tasmotize a Wemos Mini Pro and put that well away from the LG unit (electrical noise and large mass of metal), I would then use an opto isolated relay unit local to the LG. Most decent SSR's are inherently opto isolated anyway. Why a Wemos Mini Pro? Well because it can have an external antenna which will increase its ability to receive weak wireless signals. Regarding the radiator control valves there are commercial devices made by Honeywell and Drayton Wiser that are battery / wireless units but I believe they use an in house wireless protocol and I don't know if they have been 'hacked' I have got some Drayton devices I could set up, but I have no means AFAIK! of looking at the protocol. If the radiator in question has a TRV then you could buy a thermo-head for an UFH manifold and fit that to a standard TRV body. You could then use a Sonoff to operate it. You can get thermo-heads in 12 VDC and 240 VAC, the latter would be easier to use with the Sonff I guess. I'll see if I've got some bits lying around and try a thermo-head on a standard TRV Finally, plenty of thick stone walls in properties I work in! Feb 16, 10:08
  • Peter Scargill Xiaomi ZAJIA Auto-sense IR Induction Water Saver by Peter Scargill: WELL that might be helpful... actually a couple of months ago I got LG's own engineer out and he confirmed the system was running at half mast - apparently to keep the noise down - we have no next door neighbours - so now it runs at full steam and is much better but at -5c outside it struggles. I can only imagine the reason the company did not fit a larger unit was PROFIT... themostats - my requirements are a little awkward - solid stone walls so limited range, my own WIFI stat sorted that out, holiday rental for part of the year so I need total control remotely but want limited control locally... (learning does not apply when you have constantly changing holiday customers) - on the other hand, guessing forthcoming outside temperature changes 2 hours before they occur is on my horizon. I can have the system compensate even givn the 2 hour+ heating response time. VERY different to running an oil, gas or forced air system as you will know. Very occasionally my control relay fails - the LG switching unit makes a switching noise and I suspect lots of electrical noise but have nothing to test that with... (my access point isn't failing so I'm pondering a VDR on the relay contacts....) - thoughts... I would also like to automatically shift the heat to the bedroom end of the house at night and away from it the rest of the time (not multi-zoned). Any recommendations there for radiator control valves (battery powered and WIFI) welcome. Feb 15, 16:27
  • Bob Green Xiaomi ZAJIA Auto-sense IR Induction Water Saver by Bob Green: Peter, I was fascinated by alternative heating solutions and so I went on proper training courses for ASHP's GSHP's, solar thermal and solar PV and I hold nationally recognized qualifications in those 4 technologies. My most recent job was a new build passive house of 200 square metre floor area heated by UFH and a Samsung 9 kW ASHP. With an outside temperature of 2°C the system raised the internal temperature from 14°C to 19°C in under two hours. I did all of the heating, plumbing and control systems. The house also has a heat recovery system on the ventilation side. BTW I am approximately the same age as you. Feb 15, 11:19
  • Peter Scargill Xiaomi ZAJIA Auto-sense IR Induction Water Saver by Peter Scargill: My LG system DOES in fact to a weekly sterilization - I'd forgotten about that. Nice to come across someone who understands Air Source systems - the engineers who fitted it were clearly struggling but that's another conversation. Feb 15, 07:41
  • Peter Scargill Xiaomi ZAJIA Auto-sense IR Induction Water Saver by Peter Scargill: Noooo, don't stop - I make awful mistakes when responding - I'm just good at adding in corrections later. We'd miss your comments if you stopped. Erm, can't you edit your comments? I can (but that's probably as I'm admin) Feb 15, 07:29
  • Bob Green Xiaomi ZAJIA Auto-sense IR Induction Water Saver by Bob Green: I do not want to use Peter's blog to discuss the technicalities of heating and hot water systems but there are a few point worth clarifying: Legionella bacteria are killed, if present, at 60°C. ASHPs cannot achieve 60°C or even 55°C without supplementary heat input from an immersion heater. I am most familiar with Samsung ASHPs and they have a once a week sterilization cycle which runs overnight and heats the water in the cylinder to 60°C. I would think Peter's LG ASHP has this function as well. Modern hot water systems use unvented cylinders so there are no cold water storage tanks. Cold water taps on basins or sinks should never be connected to storage tanks. As alluded to in my original post there are two types of mixer taps, if the tap is the type where mixing occurs at the tap nozzle then the cold water, if mains supplied, is safe to drink. The local hot water units I referred to are small tanks holding 10 or 15 litre and connected via a non return valve to the incoming mains cold water. They have a 2 or 3kW immersion heater and only heat water in the tank to the level set on the thermostat. As water is drawn off they heater turns on again and re-heats the water. The cost to heat water in this way is no more expensive than running the immersion heater in the ASHP to raise the temperature to, sat 55°C, since the cost to heat a given volume of water is the same whatever the storage vessel. Since this local 15 litre is sealed, there is no legionella risk and so for a bathroom basin the temperature can be set to around 42°C. If the property is on a water meter it saves water too because no water is run off until the hot water arrives. Feb 14, 17:47
  • Bakeey E70 Waterproof ECG, Blood Oxygen and BP Smartwatch by John: Not really, just aware of the conversation and getting to 'that' age would like to maybe begin to look at how my body is misbehaving lol Feb 14, 16:09
  • Peter Scargill Bakeey E70 Waterproof ECG, Blood Oxygen and BP Smartwatch by Peter Scargill: Blood pressuer machines - not looked to deeply into it but I am onto my second or 3rd machine - used it for years... They range (like watches) from dirt cheap to silly prices. Any particular make in mind? Feb 14, 12:11
  • Bakeey E70 Waterproof ECG, Blood Oxygen and BP Smartwatch by John: Peter, have you looked at any of the ranges of BP machines availble, it may be a nice little excercise. Feb 14, 11:05
  • Peter Scargill BigTimer by Peter Scargill: When I'm done working on floods etc 🙂 Feb 13, 11:35
  • BigTimer by Sebastian: Hello, I LOVE BigTimer! .... but i'm missing one "override" feature 🙂 I'm using BigTimer to change heating-modes in my smart home. BigTimer toggles between normal heating and economy-heating by sending thus modestates via ON/OFF payload. But sometimes it is necessary to activate the boost-mode (full-power-heating) by sending a payload differing from the ON/OFF payloads. It would be nice if BigTimer gets a second input where you can put manual payloads for the override function and passes them to the output (at least output one). After the set timeout it should fall back to "default". Thanks for the fantastic work on BigTimer Sebastian Feb 13, 10:44
  • Peter Scargill Instar IN-9008 Full HD MQTT Wired/WIFI IP Camera by Peter Scargill: Thanks Jens. Up to now, the English at Instar is very good and the docs are in English too. Feb 13, 07:41
  • Peter Scargill Instar IN-9008 Full HD MQTT Wired/WIFI IP Camera by Peter Scargill: Hi Kevin I believe one version IS - just not mine. If you are interested, it is simple to contact Instar directly - tech support speak English, it's a new product and they are keen to help by email. I will test MQTT soon - when I'm not battling floods. Had it not been for the latter I'd have written much more by now - I think MQTT compatibility makes LOTS of sense which is why I jumped in when, out of the blue, they asked me if I would review the camera. It is not cheap and does not attempt to compete with inexpensive Chinese cameras. In case you were wondering, I do not make anything out of such reviews and in this case I'd never heard of the company until they contacted me. I plan to use this with my local MQTT broker which runs my home control along with Node-Red. I've asked the question for you just now at Instar support. Feb 13, 07:39
  • Peter Scargill Bakeey E70 Waterproof ECG, Blood Oxygen and BP Smartwatch by Peter Scargill: Hi Ray, thanks for commenting. If you check the fine print, most smartwatch wakers (including Bakeey) who offer blood pressure readings say that this feature should not be used for medical purposes, some even say you should calibrate against a proper cuff. Not too long sgo it was considered sci-fi to take even simple pulse readings by looking for colour changes yet here we are. Anyone with health issues should IMHO own (or have access to) an inflateable cuff anyway (I do, as, typical for my age, I take pills and adjust my diet/intake to keep my blood pressure within reason) - however, if the readings on the watch DO prove reliable then that means having to use a cuff less often. There is additional information in the 5-page manual. Feb 13, 07:25
  • Bakeey E70 Waterproof ECG, Blood Oxygen and BP Smartwatch by Ray Bright: Do you really trust the blood pressure reading as there is no inflated cuff or similar to take the BP reading???? Maybe the pulse rate could be accurate as this may not be as difficult to determine. Comments most welcome Feb 13, 04:09
  • Instar IN-9008 Full HD MQTT Wired/WIFI IP Camera by Kevin: Shame it’s not POE but interested in your MQTT comments when you get the opportunity. Feb 13, 02:46
  • Steve Lenehan Xiaomi ZAJIA Auto-sense IR Induction Water Saver by Steve Lenehan: It's sometimes hard to know how much risk is involved with ignoring some of these recommendations. Whilst it's true that the Health & Safety Executive stipulate 60C or more for hot water storage they also state that cold water storage be kept below 20C - how many people have any way of achieving that is likely to be minimal. Feb 12, 23:37
  • NanoPi R2S OpenWrt miniRouter – great for testing by Tom: For ~$29 (the price of cheapest NanoPi R1) you can get a normal router, where you can install OpenWRT as well. I have it installed on very old Cisco EA4500 (old, but 1Gbit/s) and it works like charm, even with all set of features like squid cache, dnsmasq, transmission for torrents, UPnP, AirPlay, miniDLNA, Samba, FTP, etc and in addition you have bult-in switch 1Gbit/s and Wi-Fi capability (2.4 & 5 GHz). So my question is... what this NanoPi is for? Feb 12, 21:44
  • PaulK HC 2020 and ESP-GO by PaulK: Hi Dave Thanks for the reply. I have tried everything power supply is good 3.31 volts at the card slot I assume that is correct. I have now tried 20 sd cards of various brands and capacity at the last count. I've used the supplied adapter for the power, and I still get the same result, if the tft file is less than 2400KB it will work anything bigger fails. Also note that ITead say they will fix the display if I pay for the return shipping and the cost of the repair. I guess they don't honour any kind of warranty as its only two months old. I won't be buying any more of their products that's for certain! I'll be sticking with 4D Systems displays from now on more expensive but like the saying goes you get what you pay for. Feb 12, 21:10
  • Peter Scargill Xiaomi ZAJIA Auto-sense IR Induction Water Saver by Peter Scargill: Hi Steve It seems that no-one told the air-source heating people about the recommendations. The recommendation WE have from the Air-Source people including LG who's Air Source system we use, is that the hot water is NOT to be heated above 55c. (UK). Feb 12, 18:26
  • Steve Lenehan Xiaomi ZAJIA Auto-sense IR Induction Water Saver by Steve Lenehan: The main reason I do not have mixer taps in the kitchen is that stored hot water is not safe to drink unless boiled and therefore there is a risk of contamination if someone draws a glass of water not realising the mixer is partially open. This also applies to any cold water taps fed from a loft water tank (usually upstairs in older UK houses). Any residents of houses which have a loft tank from prior to the 1990's and therefore before the requirement for Byelaw kits may be horrified to find the range of contaminants (animal and insect) that can be found floating in these open tanks from which they are drawing water to clean their teeth and bathe. Also the recommendation is that all stored hot water is heated to 60C or above to prevent Legionnaires bacteria. Sometimes you are happiest when you don't look too carefully. Feb 12, 15:24
  • Peter Scargill Xiaomi ZAJIA Auto-sense IR Induction Water Saver by Peter Scargill: Any such system would provide hot water at considerably more cost than our existing heat - which is an air-source heat system which powwers the central heating and also keeps a fairly large hot water tank at 55c. I do rather like the idea of an inline heat-on-demand setup as long as it would know to turn off when the incoming water reached working temperature. It would also be handy,if this saw that the hot water was NOT forthcoming from the heating system, to turn on the 3KW emergency immersion heater that normally does nothing unless turned on manually. I guess I should get my act together and have that come on if the top of the hot water tank is less than, say 40 C. Feb 12, 13:20
  • Xiaomi ZAJIA Auto-sense IR Induction Water Saver by Rogan: Today I learned 🙂 Fortunately, I'm not in the UK, although I realise that Peter is. Just to be clear, I'm not suggesting "forcing" anything into the supply entering the house, but rather simply allowing/encouraging the "now cold" hot water to circulate within the house back to the geyser, drawing warm water from the geyser into the pipes. A small water heater part way along the pipe is an interesting alternative. Having recently renovated my kitchen, I had a plug installed under the sink, for a future "instant heat" option. I was not aware that such small "geysers" are available. It may be a better alternative, although it would probably consume more electricity long term than an on-demand heater would. Feb 12, 13:08
  • Bob Green Xiaomi ZAJIA Auto-sense IR Induction Water Saver by Bob Green: Rogan, in the UK your proposal to 'force' hot water into the mains cold water supply pipe would be a breach of the Water Byelaws and potentially dangerous. If any tap or device attached to the tap causes the hot and cold water to mix within the tap body then both hot and cold supply pipes are required to have a non return valve fitted in the supply pipes. In Peter's case if the issue of hot water reaching the tap is significant, then a secondary hot water re-circulation system could be installed. There are a number of significant factors to be considered with such a proposal and it is a job for a professional installer. A simple solution is to fit a local 10-15 litre electric water heater connected to the cold supply. Very effective, very efficient and simple. It is also cheaper to install than a re-circulatory system. Feb 12, 12:13
  • Xiaomi ZAJIA Auto-sense IR Induction Water Saver by Rogan: The funny thing is that you could actually do this deliberately, to "preheat" the tap, so to speak, without wasting water. By putting a pump on the cold side of the heater, and linking the hot pipe back to the cold, you can actually force flow in the hot pipes, pushing the "cooled" water back into the cold pipe. The down side is that you may end up with hot water in the cold pipes, that surprises you when you only want cold water! That is, assuming you don't already have a hot water return pipe in place. https://www.grundfos.com/service-support/encyclopedia-search/hot-water-circulation.html Feb 12, 10:40
  • Peter Scargill Xiaomi ZAJIA Auto-sense IR Induction Water Saver by Peter Scargill: Good point and thanks for that. I wonder if anyone else thinks that is significant. I'd imagine the mixing will be very little if any. In my bathroom tap it always has taken ages for hot water to come through so any pre-mixing would be welcome 🙂 Feb 12, 09:42
  • A Blitzwolf Week including the SS1 by Seth: Adding an image.. Feb 12, 08:55
  • A Blitzwolf Week including the SS1 by Seth: Got a couple of these last week. Tuya convert worked like a charm. Thanks for making the template available. Did notice that the GND pin and AC N are connected, unlike in the Sonoff Basic. a) Does that make this device 'useless' for adding extra sensors (like PIRs etc)? b) Any other pin outs available? Thanks in advance, Gents. Great work; the blog and the comments! Feb 12, 08:15
  • Peter Scargill Bakeey E70 Waterproof ECG, Blood Oxygen and BP Smartwatch by Peter Scargill: Well, I got an RF Bridge from them without issue and I plan to get another and I have to say I get stuff from Banggood and AliExpress constantly without problems - AliExpress delivery times are very variable but stuff always turns up. For Banggood - times vary depending if shipped from Europe, China or Hong Kong. Pete Feb 11, 22:21
  • NanoPi R2S OpenWrt miniRouter – great for testing by zoobab: Good question, cannot find it anywhere... Feb 11, 15:54
  • Bob Green Bakeey E70 Waterproof ECG, Blood Oxygen and BP Smartwatch by Bob Green: Link works, but unfortunately out of stock, bugger, first time I have been tempted by one of these watches. Mind you I think Banggood's service is sliding down hill. I ordered a Sonoff RF bridge on 1st January and no sign of it yet. Chinese New Year and Coronavirus should not have affected that order since it was alledgedly posted 5th January but without shipping details. Has anyone else experienced bad service from CN suppliers this year. Feb 11, 15:50
  • Peter Scargill Bakeey E70 Waterproof ECG, Blood Oxygen and BP Smartwatch by Peter Scargill: Humble apologies - it is now... and thanks for letting me know, Gary. Feb 11, 14:15
  • Garry Hayne Bakeey E70 Waterproof ECG, Blood Oxygen and BP Smartwatch by Garry Hayne: Hi Pete, the link is not working (ERR_NAME_NOT_RESOLVED) Feb 11, 13:28
  • Dave McLaughlin HC 2020 and ESP-GO by Dave McLaughlin: Check the power supplies on the board to ensure they are correct. Be sure to check the power at the SD card slot too. Feb 11, 00:47
  • New for 2020 – Bluetooth 5.0 Earbuds and much more by PuceBaboon: Thanks for that, Pete. I look forward to hearing any extra updates... it seems that we won't be ordering any new toys for a little while longer, though; CNX Software has an update on the virus situation with some worrying news:- https://www.cnx-software.com/2020/02/10/coronavirus-update-many-chinese-companies-to-stay-closed-at-least-until-february-17/ Feb 10, 23:04
  • PaulK HC 2020 and ESP-GO by PaulK: Hi all Has anybody else had issues with a new Nextion 5" basic display failing. I was using a 4.3" display and decided to go for a 5". I ordered one from ITead direct and it arrived just before Christmas. I ported over my project to the 5" and all was well. I decided to move a few items about on the display to tidy it up a little but when I tried to upload the modified project to my display it failed! I was using the same SD card as before and i have tried many others, I've also tried a usb adapter and that failed too, no matter what baud rate I used. (Nearly 6 hours to upload it on the slowest setting). All my SD cards work with my original 4.3" display as does my usb adapter. After some testing I have discovered that the display will now only accept a TFT file of less than 2400KB. As you can imagine I'm not a happy bunny as the display is only a couple of months old. I opened a support ticket on the Nextion support page and basically they are saying it's down to my SD card or my usb adapter and closed the ticket. Feb 10, 21:45
  • Peter Scargill High Power Mains Switching with Sonoff by Peter Scargill: I figured as much, Bob ut thanks for that confirmation. An immersion heater - my GUT feeling is that they are not THAT inductive, no-where near as much as a motor etc as you suggest. My contactor has turned up - as we used to say back in the "old days" the proof of the pudding is in the eating, I guess I'll soon find out how well it works. If it runs cool to barely warm I'll be very happy. Scan - well, I had the scan but typical NHS all I got from the operator was hello - goodbye - I guess it takes an in-short-supply specialist to actually read the scan so I guess I'll find out if I'm dead or alive in a month or two. I asked how long it would take to find out - response "all consultants are different". I may as well have asked "how long is a piece of string" 🙂 Feb 10, 13:16
  • Peter Scargill New for 2020 – Bluetooth 5.0 Earbuds and much more by Peter Scargill: Not sure how much noise cancelling they do as Im not on s plane - but in a wuiet bedroom - however, generally they seem to be fine. Sound quality is cerrtainly ok. Feb 10, 12:37
  • New for 2020 – Bluetooth 5.0 Earbuds and much more by PuceBaboon: Pete, Now that you've had them for more than a week, how are you finding them? I'm definitely in the market for something with active noise cancelling (to get rid of the awful TV noise ...fairdrivesyuzspareman); any good for that? One of the other things that their ad' got me wondering was how they manage six functions with a single touch interface? Short and long taps? Morse code? -John- Feb 10, 10:20
  • The Umidigi F1 Smartphone by TC: Hi guys, Hopefully this isn't still an issue for you. In case it is and for internet posterity: to remove logo on pictures, open the camera app, choose the settings icon (2nd icon from left at the top, the cog wheel image), choose settings and the 3rd item down is "Logo Watermark" as a toggle switch; move to the left to turn it off. I have my Umidigi F1 nearly a year, and I still find it terrific, this logo "feature" appeared through a software update, confused me for a few pics and then I found the above steps. Feb 10, 09:55