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  • Steve Lenehan Node Red Alexa Remote2 by Steve Lenehan: I have had reliability issues with these nodes for a little while I suggest giving alexa-smart-home-v3 a try (also works for Google Nest). I’ve used it for 2-3 months and had no issues. Also Alexa-home-skill-bridge gives the flexibility to get validation on the settings you try to make. Feb 27, 12:34
  • Peter Scargill The Sincerest Form of Flattery by Peter Scargill: Magic. I’m sure your work colleague will be impressed… Feb 26, 18:58
  • Garry Keogh The Sincerest Form of Flattery by Garry Keogh: I found a 2 metre strip of 30 LED/M neopixels a couple of months back and stuck them onto one of those ESP01 breakout PCB’s specifically for LED’s. They had gone back into a storage box, working nicely with Tasmota but forgotten about. Last week I suggested to a work colleague with a tastefully done “man cave” in his garden to cut me a 629mm diameter disk of MDF. He has an idea that he is getting something LED based but hasn’t seen his clock yet. He sent me his WiFi creds but has no idea why I needed them. I have set up the MQTT Config on his Tasmota to use the testing broker of HiveMQTT with a topic for power and a topic for brightness. He has no idea he will be able to interface with his clock from his phone. The image is a screen shot from my “MQTT Dash” on my phone, I will set his up tomorrow when he gets his gift Feb 26, 18:28
  • TheBlackSheep Node Red Alexa Remote2 by TheBlackSheep: Got this sort of working although any change to the Flow and I have to revisit the proxy page – I’ve set the file path option in the Alexa configuration (Peter you left that bit out but it says you need this to avoid the scenario I’m having) – it does generate a file but appears to ignore this. I’ve got a full path to mine “/home/chris/.alexa.cookie” – I’ve tried Firefox and Chrome to generate the cookie but can’t see why the proxy doesn’t reload it. I do have 2FA set on my account and I did need that the first time through the proxy but I told it not to ask again and it is following that request. I also can’t get the command line version of this (alexa_remote_control.sh) working at all – it generates a capture whether MFA is set or not and putting a cookie from FF or Chrome in /tmp has no effect. This is on Ubuntu 2010 Groovy Gorilla. Pete – might be worth updating the flow image to show the “Inject” node before the Alexa Response node – I got confused with what to do too but the comments helped me here – ‘twould be good to see that in the original instructions. I am trying to get a feed from MQTT now – that way I can possibly have ESP devices sending messages directly but really need to avoid the necessity to refresh via the proxy on deployment every time I make a change – anyone any ideas? Feb 26, 13:48
  • Peter Scargill Chuwi Larkbox – Windows + Celeron Mini PC – Update by Peter Scargill: I certainly can’t gripe about it’s ability to handle videos. Feb 26, 00:10
  • Peter Scargill Chuwi Larkbox – Windows + Celeron Mini PC – Update by Peter Scargill: Well, I can’t argue with that – I guess if you don’t need those features nor support, then it’s a good deal. Feb 26, 00:09
  • Chuwi Larkbox – Windows + Celeron Mini PC – Update by X-Mann: A lot of shade being thrown at this little box, now it’s time for some Sun. I don’t need WOL, nor reboot on power, so no technical support was needed from Chuwi, although I understand and sympathize with the people who need those features for their situations. I had no problem installing the latest Linux Mint distro on it, and it dual boots perfectly, Mint as the default of course. This box does what it needs to for my circumstances, and that is email, surfing the web with Firefox (25+ tabs open), listening to music, watching films (not at 4K), and a lot of editing audio with Audacity. I keep forgetting it’s low powered and keep multitasking, and it’s been working just fine for the 4 weeks I’ve been using it every day. I’ve kept a close watch on the cpu and memory temps, they all average between 35c idle and 63c under heavy loads, not too bad, and the fan doesn’t bother me as I already have a heater in the room that’s louder. It’s not made to be a powerhouse, so I didn’t expect much from it, but it has far exceed my hopes, and it’s considerably more capable than my Raspberry Pi I was playing with several weeks ago, which was not up to the task. For an inexpensive computer that takes up about No Space, this thing is a jewel for an average user. Feb 25, 22:07
  • Peter Scargill Raspberry Pi Pico – would you bother? by Peter Scargill: I mean as in IOTCRICKET – https://tech.scargill.net/the-iotcricket-from-thingsonedge-com/ – and incidentally my three IOTCRICKETS are still sitting in a cupboard on test, working perfectly. At this rate I’ll be able to stick them in the garden and leave for months – at least the one running on a pair of disposable 1.5v Lithium Energisers. Feb 25, 19:53
  • Raspberry Pi Pico – would you bother? by Zulfqar Ali: With CRICKET board do you mean ECB or a development board? Feb 25, 12:05
  • Peter Scargill New Goodies from Itead (Sonoff) – Worth the Wait? by Peter Scargill: Hi Doug. I’m kind of hoping the fellow who came up with node-red-contrib-ewelink will take it a stage further.. but that’s as much down to the API as his node. I’ve asked Itead what the plan is for the API, they’re well aware of my aversion to using their cloud (or anyone elses for that matter) – so I’ll give it a couple of weeks to see what happens. If nothing transpires then you can be sure I’ll rip it open to see if it can be Tasmotized. The REAL bummer here is the apparent demise of Tuya-Convert – if only someone could come up with a general purpose mechanism for converting the TUYA and EweLink based products to run locally under Tasmota. Still – not exactly mass-market, are we…. Feb 24, 15:26
  • New Goodies from Itead (Sonoff) – Worth the Wait? by Doug: Thanks for the review. Any chance you’d be popping the globe off one of the lights to see what’s inside and where we might connect to Tasmotize the LBS? Feb 24, 15:04
  • BigTimer by Ralf: That’s what Peter written one post before: The output 2 will ALWAYS send every minute. Use output 1 to send only on status change ! Feb 23, 03:03
  • BigTimer by Raul: Hello, I have unchecked the boxes Repeat output and Output at startup, but keep sending outputs every minute out of output 2. Should I stop sending when you uncheck the boxes? Thanks. Feb 22, 21:13
  • Peter Scargill BigTimer by Peter Scargill: Thats what output 2 does. Feb 22, 19:26
  • BigTimer by Raul: hi i’m new to nodered. Thank you very much for creating bigtimer. I have a problem: output two of the node sends the status every minute and also at power up. I have unchecked the options at the bottom of the settings tab, but it keeps happening. Thanks a lot. Feb 22, 17:43
  • BigTimer by Ralf Weber: Hi, any idea why this don’t work ? Feb 21, 06:38
  • Peter Scargill H801 LED RGBWW Strip Controller + 4-relay ESP8266 Board by Peter Scargill: AliExpress often look like they have better pricing and sometimes they do – but first looks can be deceiving – indeed I think they often go out of their way to confuse the unwary and good look getting any support other than the automated “can you send a video of the problem”. Also bear in mind that Banggood have lots of tech info on their website and no doubt more available on request. I didn’t really mention the mains side of this unit. At least at first glance it is well designed, proper air gaps etc. – I like it. ALSO since starting this reply I’ve updated the blog with some successes, suggest you re-read that last couple of paragraphs. This board has turned out to be a winner. Feb 20, 21:58
  • Peter Scargill More Trivia – Blitzwolf BW-FUN11 Humidifier by Peter Scargill: I did. Thank you Steve. Fixed and hopefully otherwise improved. Feb 20, 21:44
  • More Trivia – Blitzwolf BW-FUN11 Humidifier by steve: Typo alert: “Aroma Oil Dehumidifier.” — I think you mean “humidifier”, not “dehumidifier”…? Feb 20, 19:31
  • Steve Lenehan H801 LED RGBWW Strip Controller + 4-relay ESP8266 Board by Steve Lenehan: Not when you take into account shipping cost. In addition Aliexpress now insist on adding VAT on all orders (at least to the UK) which brings up considerably more than Banggood. Have to say I’m impressed with this unit, good separation with surge and current inrush protection on the mains side. Does pretty much everything a 4Chan Pro does at a fraction of the price once I print up a case for it. Feb 20, 17:11
  • Ion Ciubotaru H801 LED RGBWW Strip Controller + 4-relay ESP8266 Board by Ion Ciubotaru: Better price on aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001651180110.html Feb 20, 14:33
  • Julian Knight Shelly One WIFI Switch by Julian Knight: If you are using MQTT, things are even easier 😀 Glad I purchased a bunch in last year’s Black Friday sale. Got several 1’s, a pow and a RGBW controller. Already retro-fitted the pow into the case of an old Edimax Wi-Fi plug who’s relay had failed. No reflashing needed. Though it took several (read MANY) attempts to update the firmware, that was a right pain for some reason. Had to resort to a work-around from the Internet. The latest firmware works well with MQTT. Sadly (not!), turning on MQTT disables the Shelly cloud – good riddance. Feb 19, 13:34
  • First of the Summer Toys – Solar RGB Owl by Andy: No worries! Found one on Ebay. Feb 17, 19:34
  • Peter Scargill First of the Summer Toys – Solar RGB Owl by Peter Scargill: Erm, sorry to say this – I just ordered the last one 😊 As soon as my contact in Banggood is back from Chinese New Year, I’m ask him to get more in. They really are too good to miss. I even check both Banggood and AliExpress for you.. no stock of anything similar today.. damn. Feb 16, 13:05
  • First of the Summer Toys – Solar RGB Owl by Andy: Nice! Looks like they’re out of Owls though 🙁 Feb 16, 12:46
  • Peter Scargill BigTimer by Peter Scargill: Hi Niclas. That’s not making sense. Two things… OFF time should be later than ON time – and also BigTimer control does not specifically include date interval control. There are 12 special days for the purpose of date intervals (holidays etc) – but generally you can control by month and if needed, by day of the week. Feb 16, 08:35
  • Shelly One WIFI Switch by Peter Diffey: does node red run on a VT100? Feb 15, 15:39
  • Peter Scargill Shelly One WIFI Switch by Peter Scargill: My pal Antonio has had more than one attempt to get me into HA – and to talk to some people you would think it was the cure for Covid – personally I’m happy messing around in Node-Red and it’s dashboard. Feb 15, 11:51
  • Peter Scargill Thursday Gadget Roundup and More Displays by Peter Scargill: I think the point of the “Power” command is to turn the displays opn and off without losing the contents – so – in Tasniota if you set “Pulsetime” to a decent timeout, the display will go off after a whilewithout losing data. “POWER 1” will bring it back up ready to timeout again. I marginally prefer the idea of a cheap proximity sensor. Feb 15, 11:49
  • Peter Scargill Banggood 30W DIY Laser Engraving Machine by Peter Scargill: I’m not sitting in font of the machine right now but I’m almost sure one is power, the other low-high? Either way the machine works – my only issue up to now (bearing in mind I’ve been unable to get materials for PROPER testing – just finally got some wood and plastic at the weekend) is that the machine does not seem to work with standard software out there (Lightburn for example). Having said that, the software supplied works ok. Feb 15, 11:43
  • Peter Scargill Thursday Gadget Roundup and More Displays by Peter Scargill: The original Espressif implementation of I2c was no good – I2c not supported in hardware, it’s a software version. Of late I’ve had no problems with I2c either in my own ESG-GO or in Tasmota. Feb 15, 11:38
  • Shelly One WIFI Switch by Peter Diffey: Shelly 1 was a very easy way to add time of day control to my dumb Rolec EV charger. Less than 30 minutes from unboxing, reading instructions, installed and working. It can also be controlled directly from google assistant and alexa – no wazzing around with ifttt. The phone app is poor, but you only need that to configure it, then as Peter mentioned, you can control it direct from its built in web browser, so if you have lots of them, you can just create a text web page and embed links to control them. A lot easier than messing around in the GUI hell of HA etc Feb 15, 03:17
  • Shelly One WIFI Switch by Peter Diffey: Shelly 1 was a very easy way to add time of day control to my dumb Rolec EV charger. Less than 30 minutes from unboxing to installed and working. It can also be controlled directly from google assistant and alexa. The phone app is poor, but you only need that to configure it, then as Peter mentioned, you can control it direct from its built in web browser, so if you have lots of them, you can just create a text web page and embed links to control them. A lot easier than messing around in the GUI hell of HA etc Feb 15, 03:13
  • Thursday Gadget Roundup and More Displays by Doug: Thanks for the heads-up on the display age failure. I’ll add some blanking in node-red to turn off the displays and think about a button or sensor to turn them on/off. So are you using the displays on esp8266 to show status of the device or are you sending mqtt strings to them for remote displays? Feb 15, 00:06
  • Peter Scargill Thursday Gadget Roundup and More Displays by Peter Scargill: Hi Doug… I’ve been using ESP8266 with OLEDS (SSD1306 – the 32 and 64 px high versions) for years, until recently using my own ESP-GO but now I use Tasmota – it doesn’t get any easier. Just make sure the display gets turned off when you’re not looking at it (foe example a simple timer or proximity device) – they don;t last 3 months if left on 24-7 (first hand experience)… but 5 minutes when needed, say half a dozen times a day, they will last for years. In any case I’ve yet to find an RPi4 case (except monsters) that will do a good job of housing the OLED, so may as well site it nearby or on top… thinking about it, my RPis sit on shelves out of the way.. so a nice SSD1306 with a button (on top of the PC monitor for example) could multi-task to tell the power-up state of the RPi and some other duty as well. Or it could report on several RPis… sky’s the limit 🙂 Feb 14, 19:11
  • Banggood 30W DIY Laser Engraving Machine by Pedro Lundquist: Hi Peter, thank you for your article. I’m in the same situation as you, I have bought the same 30W laser engraving as you have and is now trying to figure out how it works. I have a guess about the small aluminium cylinder. Maybe it’s meant to be used for adjusting the distance between the laser and the object to be engraved? I have not come so far yet that I could test this. I’m right now stuck with another topic, the laser does not turn on at all. I have found two (!) buttons on the top of the laser. I guess one of them is for the power to the laser but what is then the other for? Do you know? Feb 14, 18:09
  • Thursday Gadget Roundup and More Displays by Doug: yes, I’ve had problems with I2C on esp8266 recently too and on various other devices over the years. It’s really designed for on board(PCB) type communications but 4 wires is just too easy sometimes. Chaining devices when there’s no pass-thru is also a PIA so I was pleased to see I could create a new i2c bus on the rPi with just a config.txt line. Interesting idea of using the esp with OLED as a remote display. Feb 14, 17:48
  • Peter Scargill Thursday Gadget Roundup and More Displays by Peter Scargill: Hi The node-red i2c node is one of three which over time has given me trouble – the others being serial and the sqlite node. Serial seems ok now, I was planning to do away with SQLITE and using I2c in Node-Red in favour of simply callinf up ESP8266-based displays via MQTT given the tiny exrea cosat of an ESP8266 board. Worth a note however. Feb 14, 17:38
  • Thursday Gadget Roundup and More Displays by Doug: speaking of displays: rPi OS now allows setting up i2c buses on other GPIO pins but the default node-red-contrib-oled didn’t let you specify the I2C bus and only defaulted to i2c-1. My forked version of node-red-contrib-oled lets you set the Bus number in the config node – https://github.com/dlarue/node-red-contrib-oled On the rPi, I added the 2nd I2C bus adding this line to /boot/config.txt which creates bus i2c-4: dtoverlay=i2c-gpio,bus=4,i2c_gpio_delay_us=1,i2c_gpio_sda=23,i2c_gpio_scl=24 Feb 14, 16:56
  • DrFragle and MrShark Chuwi Larkbox – Windows + Celeron Mini PC – Update by DrFragle and MrShark: that’s, unfortunately, a common thing with little chinese manufacturers, way more true in the smartphone field: they arrive with a firmware, you can just HOPE in a couple of updates in the months immediately following the “birth” of the new model, then they’re just abandoned, and a new one is out… Feb 13, 16:27
  • Peter Scargill Chuwi Larkbox – Windows + Celeron Mini PC – Update by Peter Scargill: Hi Antonio – the problem is that Chuwi are not even bothering to respond. My patience for companies who sell boxes without any intention of support is just about gone. I already left various notes in their forum. They’re more interested in selling the next design – well, that’s why independent reviews are important…. reward those companies who help, punish those who don’t. I wasted so much time on this box only to eventually have it fill up space in a corner. Feb 13, 16:02
  • DrFragle and MrShark Chuwi Larkbox – Windows + Celeron Mini PC – Update by DrFragle and MrShark: problem is, WoL on wifi cards is not used so much (requires windows not actually fully halted, but a semi-hybernation state, and not all wifi cards have this available), and it cannot do WoL via addon usb eth because that’s NOT supported by ANY stock firmware… the only thing you can ask chuwi is a setting to restore previous state on power loss… Feb 13, 15:46
  • Peter Scargill Chuwi Larkbox – Windows + Celeron Mini PC – Update by Peter Scargill: Via a USB-C adaptor the Larkbox indeed cAN handle wired Ethernet – the problems with this box include inability to wake on LAN – and inability to auto power up after power cycling. Actually the MAIN problem is that Chuwi simply don’t seem to CARE. Regards Pete Feb 13, 14:18
  • Chuwi Larkbox – Windows + Celeron Mini PC – Update by xAPPO: What a shame no wired Ethernet RJ45. Feb 13, 13:30
  • BigTimer by Ralf Weber: The screenshot wasn’t attached in my question from February 8, 2021 at 2:10 pm Feb 13, 08:18
  • Athom Smart Socket pre-Tasmota’d and Smart Light by Alan Williamson: Yes, that does. I have now ordered a few of the devices that suit the Australian geography and will give it all a try when they arrive. The regulations here are fairly strict for new builds, but hobby level is OK. We do have certified DETA switches however re-flashing them with Tasmota is quite messy. Thanks for your advice – and sorry about the photo, I thought it was for the small image against my name! Alan Feb 12, 22:23
  • Lindsay Reid Athom Smart Socket pre-Tasmota’d and Smart Light by Lindsay Reid: Well – that nudged me to calibrate! Feb 12, 10:36
  • Lindsay Reid Athom Smart Socket pre-Tasmota’d and Smart Light by Lindsay Reid: FYI – These are the entity details in HA shown after manually using the switch on the Athom to turn on. (I know I must get round to calibrating – I don’t really have nearly 300 volts!) Feb 12, 10:30
  • Lindsay Reid Athom Smart Socket pre-Tasmota’d and Smart Light by Lindsay Reid: This is from the console of the Athom showing the MQTT messages when you manually operate the switch on the Athom. As you can see, it clearly sends MQTT message to show button has been pressed and also resultant RESULT = {“POWER”:”ON”} or RESULT = {“POWER”:”OFF”} : 11:20:09 MQT: stat/Athom-Mains01/BUTTON1T = {“TRIG”:”SINGLE”} 11:20:09 MQT: tele/Athom-Mains01/STATE = {“Time”:”2021-02-12T11:20:09″,”Uptime”:”0T00:01:13″,”UptimeSec”:73,”Heap”:24,”SleepMode”:”Dynamic”,”Sleep”:50,”LoadAvg”:19,”MqttCount”:1,”POWER”:”ON”,”Wifi”:{“AP”:1,”SSId”:”BTWholeHome-5RR”,”BSSId”:”E0:51:63:26:52:70″,”Channel”:11,”RSSI”:96,”Signal”:-52,”LinkCount”:1,”Downtime”:”0T00:00:03″}} 11:20:09 MQT: stat/Athom-Mains01/RESULT = {“POWER”:”ON”} 11:20:09 MQT: stat/Athom-Mains01/POWER = ON 11:20:14 MQT: stat/Athom-Mains01/BUTTON1T = {“TRIG”:”SINGLE”} 11:20:14 MQT: tele/Athom-Mains01/STATE = {“Time”:”2021-02-12T11:20:14″,”Uptime”:”0T00:01:18″,”UptimeSec”:78,”Heap”:24,”SleepMode”:”Dynamic”,”Sleep”:50,”LoadAvg”:20,”MqttCount”:1,”POWER”:”OFF”,”Wifi”:{“AP”:1,”SSId”:”BTWholeHome-5RR”,”BSSId”:”E0:51:63:26:52:70″,”Channel”:11,”RSSI”:94,”Signal”:-53,”LinkCount”:1,”Downtime”:”0T00:00:03″}} 11:20:14 MQT: stat/Athom-Mains01/RESULT = {“POWER”:”OFF”} 11:20:14 MQT: stat/Athom-Mains01/POWER = OFF Hope this helps. Lindsay Feb 12, 10:21
  • Athom Smart Socket pre-Tasmota’d and Smart Light by Alan Williamson: I have been looking at the “ATHOM pre flashed tasmota esphome ESP8266 based WiFi switch” for controlling some external garden lights. What I would like to know is whether the switch sends MQTT commands to the network when the user manually turns the light on or off? I would like to keep the state of my HA system in sync with the actual state of the lights. Feb 12, 09:15
  • Peter Scargill PiVPN (OpenVPN + WireGuard) Pi-hole and ZeroTier by Peter Scargill: Good Steve, but I don’t use Home Assistant – quite happy using Node-Red to control everything directly via Mosquitto (in fact there’s no reason I could not use the MQTT node . I can’t imagine that Wireguard will be left to rot on Pi… 32 bit would be fine but I have no idea how to downgrade back to the 32 bit version without losing my substancial installation – any thoughts welcome – I only ugraded because it seemed the right thing to do 🙂 Feb 11, 14:28
  • Steve Lenehan My Node-Red Dashboard Controls for 2021 by Steve Lenehan: Subflows don’t help because my duplication revolves around having to have 15 branches updating different tab/group combinations in the dashboard nodes and as these cannot be set dynamically within the message I have to maintain currently 15 x 7 dashboard nodes. This would normally be OK but as new locations appear and layout changes it becomes a maintenance headache. Did experiment with UI Builder but current direction of travel is to give up on Node Red Dashboard altogether and move these displays to Home Assistant keeping Node Red for data processing only. Feb 11, 10:11
  • BigTimer by Niclas: Hey Im trying to get Bigtimer to send On 06:45 and Off 01:00 under the date interval of 11th of December to 10th of January. But I dont get it to work. It send on/off every day. Feb 11, 09:31
  • My Node-Red Dashboard Controls for 2021 by Kman: Subflows Feb 10, 19:19
  • Steve Lenehan PiVPN (OpenVPN + WireGuard) Pi-hole and ZeroTier by Steve Lenehan: Can’t speak as to the issues with the 64 bit version of Raspberry Pi OS and if the 32 bit version is not suitable another alternative is the 64 bit Pi version of Home Assistant – I can confirm that wireguard works fine on that and the install and upgrades are extremely simple. Feb 10, 10:10
  • Peter Scargill PiVPN (OpenVPN + WireGuard) Pi-hole and ZeroTier by Peter Scargill: Nope, I’ve no idea but I can confirm that in January I checked and there is an issue with Wireguard now and the RPi – unless anyone has any later information. Apparently comments in here https://www.reddit.com/r/WireGuard/comments/kbb5r5/raspberry_pi_cant_start_wireguard/ helped some folk but not others. I’ve not had time to progress this but Wireguard is still working on my now 8 months-since-updated RPI4-based Raspbian installation back in the UK, but on my local Pi 4, updated to the latest 64 bit “Raspberry Pi OS” in December, no such luck. PiVPN and OpenVPN continue to work but not Wireguard. If anyone knows better – please do comment. Feb 10, 09:18
  • BigTimer by Ralf Weber: Hi, thank you for creating the BigTimer node. I’ve tried some time but couldn’t figure out what’s wrong. I tried to switch on a plant lamp in the morning and in the evening. On 120min before sunrise, off 60min after sunrise. On 60min before sunset and off 120min after sunset. But my BigTimer config switch only On Time and On Time 2 is ignored. Any idea for me ? [{“id”:”b09c3664.113068″,”type”:”bigtimer”,”z”:”29af218d.34f36e”,”outtopic”:””,”outpayload1″:”an”,”outpayload2″:”aus”,”name”:”Big Timer 1″,”comment”:””,”lat”:”49.4664926 “,”lon”:”8.5003212″,”starttime”:”5003″,”endtime”:”5003″,”starttime2″:”5004″,”endtime2″:”5004″,”startoff”:”-120″,”endoff”:”60″,”startoff2″:”-60″,”endoff2″:”120″,”offs”:0,”outtext1″:””,”outtext2″:””,”timeout”:1440,”sun”:true,”mon”:true,”tue”:true,”wed”:true,”thu”:true,”fri”:true,”sat”:true,”jan”:true,”feb”:true,”mar”:true,”apr”:true,”may”:true,”jun”:true,”jul”:true,”aug”:true,”sep”:true,”oct”:true,”nov”:true,”dec”:true,”day1″:0,”month1″:0,”day2″:0,”month2″:0,”day3″:0,”month3″:0,”day4″:0,”month4″:0,”day5″:0,”month5″:0,”day6″:0,”month6″:0,”day7″:0,”month7″:0,”day8″:0,”month8″:0,”day9″:0,”month9″:0,”day10″:0,”month10″:0,”day11″:0,”month11″:0,”day12″:0,”month12″:0,”d1″:0,”w1″:0,”d2″:0,”w2″:0,”d3″:0,”w3″:0,”d4″:0,”w4″:0,”d5″:0,”w5″:0,”d6″:0,”w6″:0,”xday1″:0,”xmonth1″:0,”xday2″:0,”xmonth2″:0,”xday3″:0,”xmonth3″:0,”xday4″:0,”xmonth4″:0,”xday5″:0,”xmonth5″:0,”xday6″:0,”xmonth6″:0,”xday7″:0,”xmonth7″:0,”xday8″:0,”xmonth8″:0,”xday9″:0,”xmonth9″:0,”xday10″:0,”xmonth10″:0,”xday11″:0,”xmonth11″:0,”xday12″:0,”xmonth12″:0,”xd1″:0,”xw1″:0,”xd2″:0,”xw2″:0,”xd3″:0,”xw3″:0,”xd4″:0,”xw4″:0,”xd5″:0,”xw5″:0,”xd6″:0,”xw6″:0,”suspend”:false,”random”:false,”randon1″:false,”randoff1″:false,”randon2″:false,”randoff2″:false,”repeat”:false,”atstart”:false,”odd”:false,”even”:false,”x”:290,”y”:200,”wires”:[[“755a6749.1a6498”],[],[]]}] Feb 8, 14:10
  • PiVPN (OpenVPN + WireGuard) Pi-hole and ZeroTier by Adrian Dorobat: “January 2021 – issues with Wireguard on the RPI – with the updated 64 bit RPI operating system – Wireguard no longer works” Can you be more specific about this? I just bought a RPI to dabble in the whole networking thing and wanted to install PiVPN on it with Wireguard. Feb 8, 10:42
  • A9 Mini WIFI HD 1080P Wireless IP Camera by Tom Duncan: Has anyone had any success with the a9 camera on getting it to work on anything but the chinese app. I would like to use it with my own pc based software. Thanks in advance Tom Feb 8, 03:05
  • Peter Scargill Banggood 30W DIY Laser Engraving Machine by Peter Scargill: Feel free to feed back any results- when my wood and acrylic finally arroves from China I intend to have a go so any tips most welcome. Feb 7, 17:24
  • Scott Millken Banggood 30W DIY Laser Engraving Machine by Scott Millken: Thanks Pete. Having a hard time finding info, as most of the info is for engraving. I want to cut thru 3 mm of acrylic. I’ll tape it to a piece of wood. Feb 7, 17:10
  • PiVPN (OpenVPN + WireGuard) Pi-hole and ZeroTier by John: Good news! My shiny new Pi3 UPS arrived early yesterday morning.  Turns out this item comes from a company called PiModules www.pimodules.com (no affiliation).  Seems they only market to industrial users – – which explains why I never ran across a UPS of this calibre before despite 2 years of searching.  Although the unit I got is “Designed for the Pi3 series”, it will work with the Pi2 and the PiZero (and although not yet tested, I suspect on the Pi4 as well. Stay tuned for that as I’m going to try it on my Pi4 in the next few days. For now, though, I’m writing about my experience installing and configuring the UPS on my Pi3b. Right… So the Pi3 UPS I received seems an impressive piece of kit.  Not only is it a UPS, it also has user three programmable buttons, programmable LED’s, has POE available, can perform fan control, works with various sensors (temp, humidity, etc), has three A/D converters, can receive IR signals, can programmatically control an onboard relay, can change its charging profile based on battery chemistry, and seemingly much more.  Of course I didn’t need any of those features.  I just needed a plain vanilla UPS that would gracefully power down my Pi3b on power outage and then re-start the system on power restore.  So, that is what I’m reporting on here: The “Plain-Jane” UPS features. For those interested, I reproduce below links to the user manual PDF (150+ pages) and product page where I purchased mine here in Switzerland: https://www.pi-shop.ch/downloads/dl/file/id/316/product/998/manual_ups_pimodules.pdf https://www.pi-shop.ch/ups-pico-uninterruptible-power-supply-i2c-control-hat So on to my high-level impressions of the PiModules UPS: 1) Functionality. So far (after 36 hours) the unit works very well as a UPS. Shuts down and re-starts when it’s supposed to. 2) Documentation. The docs from PiModules are a train wreck. No quick start guide. The user guides are verbose (150+ pages), outdated, and overly complex (you’d benefit having an EE degree or Coding experience to understand them). The first use guide starts on page 73. Why?!!! 3) Support. Their Github site, company website support, docs, and instructions are lacking. It appears that support is an afterthought for these guys… which is unfortunate as their UPS seems to be quite a feature-rich piece of kit. 5) Feedback. Various forum threads have mixed feedback. Some love them. Others not. I read some posts from industrial users who walked away in 2016/2017 due to lackluster support or buggy firmware from PiModules. 6) Recommendation. If you’re not put off on the price, buy one. The feature that was priceless to me is that the UPS HAT doesn’t require a separate power source like … well like almost all of the others I’ve seen. Some additional random thoughts and guidance for those thinking to buy/install/configure one of these on their Pi3… The notes below were assembled in hopes of saving someone from 5+ hours of reading, researching, and experimenting on their first time install. With 150+ pages in the user guide, I would have welcomed such help. Hope you do too! 🙂 – Before installing the unit onto your PI…Be sure to solder in the gold plated reset pin (page 43).  This is shown as optional but I already found the need to reset my unit manually a couple of times as I was figuring out how it works.  Not sure what I would have done without it.  If using a non Pi3, I think you could solder a wired connection to the “Run” pad appropriate for your particular Pi.  But I caution that I have only used this on my Pi3b but I will try it with my Pi4 in the next few days.  I will report my findings here after. – I don’t recommend you to solder the “magic switch” on to the board as there are known complications that can result if you accidentally set the switch to the wrong setting when powering up.  As I just needed basic features I left this off. – Install the buzzer (page 48).  If you want audible alerts, of course (this is otherwise optional). – OK.  Getting now to the actual install… – Install the UPS hat on top of your PI’s GPIO pins, power up your Pi, and then advance to the bottom of page #63 of the manual. – Closely or blindly (if you’re a linux newb like me) follow the software install instructions from page 63-67. – Wait for battery to fully charge. – Road test it. – Take note of the usage instructions on page 73.  Yes.  You have to suffer through 70+ pages before figuring out how to use the bloody thing.    Arggghhhh. A quick start guide would definitely have been appreciated here! – Take note of LED indicator explanations on page 83. – Take note of button usage outlined on page 85.  Understanding how these work is critical so be sure to invest some time reading this part. – And if you get yourself into trouble, kindly take note of the factory reset procedure on page 138. Yep. From usage instructions to reset guide took 50+ pages. Again: Why??? #PalmHitsForehead – Generally speaking the install was fairly straight forward and although it took ~5 hours to get it working, the next one will likely take me 30 minutes.  – User Guide: Although the user guide is lengthy, it is poorly written and poorly organized.  As mentioned no Quick Start Guide available.  Having said that, it does contain a wealth of technical info with pages and pages of registers and such that a programmer would need to exploit the true power of this thing.  So again the guide is long and detailed but not easy to follow for simply setting one up.  So again…. I hope the notes here are of help to others. – My unit is working fine after ~36 hours of various testing modes.  Disconnect power.  Disconnect battery.  Re-Apply power whilst powering down, etc. etc.  Everything seems to be working as expected. – Regarding Firmware:  If you surf the PiModules website, you’ll see that they have some firmware updates available including one that doesn’t tie up any of the GPIO pins.  They called this “GPIO FREE” firmware and apparently it works by sensing voltage and other electrical characteristics to assess the health of the PI without needing to reserve GPIO pins for the UPS.  This didn’t matter to me but it might be important for others who are looking to stack other HAT’s on top.  Well needless to say I didn’t bother to update the firmware as I had no need for any of the fancy features.  !!! UPDATE !!! – – I ended up needing to update my firmware to fix a bug where the UPS hangs when power is re-applied during the shutdown process. I will report later if this actually fixes the problem or not. With so many features (and with many of them beyond my skill set), I couldn’t possibly provide a proper review of all of them. But as I said before, I just needed a UPS that will gracefully power down and then restart once power is restored.  In this regard, it looks like this one does do the trick. 🙂 As I was wrapping this post up, I just noticed on the PiModules website that they now have “Designed for Pi4” units in pre-production with first deliveries expected in March/April.  I will likely pick up a few of those once they’re available. In the meantime, I will continue to assess operation on my Pi3b and will try my current “Designed for Pi3” UPS with my Pi4 in the next week or so. Keeping my fingers crossed that she works. If not, I’ll just have to wait until the “Designed for Pi4” units are in stock here locally. Stay tuned ! Rgds… – John in Switzerland Feb 7, 16:20
  • Peter Scargill Banggood 30W DIY Laser Engraving Machine by Peter Scargill: I would put plywood underneath, having put a tiny hole in my desk already. Feb 7, 11:39
  • Scott Millken Banggood 30W DIY Laser Engraving Machine by Scott Millken: When using the laser for cutting acrylic, does one need to place something underneath the acrylic like plywood? I have a 3018 with an aluminum table/bed. Feb 7, 02:48
  • Peter Scargill PiVPN (OpenVPN + WireGuard) Pi-hole and ZeroTier by Peter Scargill: Will look forward to your feedback. Feb 6, 12:40
  • PiVPN (OpenVPN + WireGuard) Pi-hole and ZeroTier by John: Definitely pricey but given the prices I see on Amazon and elsewhere for Pi UPS’s of any flavor or quality (typically 25-35 Euros)… I don’t think 40 Euros is out of line. Once I receive my unit I will test it on my Pi3b (my original reason for buying it) and also on my Pi4. I will of course report back my findings. My only fear is that it will be too complicated to configure. The operating manual is ~150 pages long and my goodness there appears to be options for anything and everything configuration-wise. One potential benefit of purchasing could be to further advance the Dog’s Breakfast and Kitchen Sink efforts. 🙂 Will report back once I’ve had a chance to play with it. Rgds… – John in Switzerland Feb 6, 11:39
  • Peter Scargill PiVPN (OpenVPN + WireGuard) Pi-hole and ZeroTier by Peter Scargill: Hi there John Thanks for that – well, converting that to Euros – around 40 Euros – I’m guessing plus tax and duty which could be significant? And they’re ad claims “5V 3A output, designed for use on the latest Raspberry Pi 3B+” suggesting an old design as there is nothing new about the Pi 3B+. I took a brief look to see if Pi-Shop is part of an international chain but didn’t get anywhere. 5v3A…. sounds about right, would perhaps need a connector rethink for Pi4? (USB-C). That price looks ok but not stunning – I’ll leave it to others to decide but the spec at first glance seems up to the job. Feb 5, 06:02
  • PiVPN (OpenVPN + WireGuard) Pi-hole and ZeroTier by John: Hi Aidan / Hi Pete – Are either of you familiar with this Pi UPS? I ran across it at a Swiss Pi vendor and looks promising as it ticks a lot of boxes for me: 1) Automatically shut-down if there is a power failure 2) Can monitor & reboot once power is restored. 3) 5V 3A output 4) Powered by and the battery pack charged via the GPIO pins, so no additional cabling required. I have just ordered one to see if it lives up to the claims. Compulsory links follow: https://www.pi-shop.ch/ups-pico-uninterruptible-power-supply-i2c-control-hat https://www.pi-shop.ch/downloads/dl/file/id/316/product/998/manual_ups_pimodules.pdf Please let me know what you think. Sincerest Rgds… – John in Switzerland Feb 5, 00:48
  • Peter Scargill Raspberry Pi Pico – would you bother? by Peter Scargill: I’m more than happy to use my time range to keep learning about esp32 and Tasmota. I wasted lots of time on the original (SLOW) Pi and the Zero and Zero W not to mention several clones that ultimately didn’t cut the mustard (several months in all). As I now life in the sun and probably won’t live forever, I have to be a little selective:-) Feb 4, 13:16
  • WARREN EVANS Raspberry Pi Pico – would you bother? by WARREN EVANS: Yes, I’d bother with it. It’s fascinating how advanced this little guy is. There is something very elegant about just dropping your code in. And the storage is respectable, not to mention the timely speed of the processors. Hoping time will change your outlook. Feb 4, 01:49
  • DrFragle and MrShark The IOTCRICKET from ThingsOnEdge.COM by DrFragle and MrShark: the esp8266-m3? 🙂 https://arduinodiy.wordpress.com/2019/08/13/using-the-esp-m3/ Feb 3, 17:07
  • Peter Scargill The IOTCRICKET from ThingsOnEdge.COM by Peter Scargill: The only issue I have with that is that in America that price is high, outside of America it would be unfeasible. For me to have one of those Trigboards sent to Spain would be utterly impractical – $29 + tax + duty + shipping – I think not… Erm, has anyone though of taking a simple ESP8266 board (3v3 operated – without regulator or USB as both would contribute to current consumption) and putting Tasmota onto it… I’ve not checked as low-power isn’t normally my thing but I’m sure I’ve seen something about sleep in the Tasmota commands. It really isn’t rocket science.. erm, yes, command DeepSleepTime. More on this later as I have a Google MEET call coming up with ThingsOnEdge to get some more info from them. Feb 3, 12:56
  • Peter Scargill The Script by Peter Scargill: I can only imagine something up with your connection. Feb 3, 11:07
  • Kris_I The Script by Kris_I: When running the script, it fails…. The message I receive is: !!!! No internet connection available, aborting ! The internet connection shows to be OK via the web browser. The demos of the end result in use looks great, videos by Andreas.. Please advise. Thanks! Feb 3, 02:41
  • Dennis Bourassa The IOTCRICKET from ThingsOnEdge.COM by Dennis Bourassa: I put in another vote for the trigboard https://trigboard-docs.readthedocs.io/en/latest/index.html# I think it’s almost impossible to beat his low power specs. And with the trigBoard V8 he included MQTT and Pushsafer and Pushover. I have these things spread all over my property. Some with door sensors and/or Pirs. Set and forget, and it’ll remind you to replace the batteries, every year or so… Enjoy…. Feb 3, 00:03
  • DrFragle and MrShark General Itead Sonoff ramblings – now with Zigbee by DrFragle and MrShark: https://tasmota.github.io/docs/Thermostat/ Feb 2, 16:44
  • Argon ONE Case for Raspberry Pi 4 Updated by Valentin: I can confirm that Argon V2 have this jumper that is default set to “1-2 3” and it serve to keep the Pi off after power failure. When put in “1 2-3” position, the Pi is powered on on power restore. As a note, since I use DietPi, the I2C was off by default, and the fan was always on while the jumper was in position “Always On”. So, after enabling the I2C and reboot (with diet-config), the fan stay On (at 100%) only for the boot process, then accordingly to config file and the temperature sets, it go off or at the defined speed. Hope this lines helps somebody. Photos of the package v2 : https://ibb.co/cQkTn5b https://ibb.co/CWmm0Mv Thanks for sharing. Feb 2, 14:52
  • General Itead Sonoff ramblings – now with Zigbee by Steve Lenehan: Hi – Not sure if this question was for me but it arrived on my email. If the TH16 and S2y are on the original firmware then I believe you can create schedules but I don’t use Ewelink so I cant give details. If they are tasmotized then I would use Node Red as a central automation hub and the control you require is very straightforward. If you dont want to use Node Red it may be possible to manage it on a device to device basis but it will probably require mods to the tasmota source. Also be aware of the current draw requirements of the heating device and allow plenty of headroom to the S26’s specs. Feb 2, 09:45
  • BigTimer by CJ Ramseyer: Thank you for answering my previous post. I did get this working after your comments and some trial and error. I have 9 Bigtimers now in this automation to control an InputSelect for various special days to control a lighting setup. Due to how BigTimer handles added days, I simply used multiple for some things and some extended times. No big deal. My challenge is to add a specific day, but one that the date varies but is always on the same day (US, Labor Day, the first Monday of September) I appreciate a suggestion how to configure BigTimer for the first Monday in the 9th month. Feb 2, 00:36
  • BigTimer by CJ Ramseyer: Mark, I did in-fact get it to work. I have it shared on GitHub. Sorry I took so long, I did not see your message til now coming back here to try and add to the solution. In any case, you can find my NodeRed automations here: github.com/cjramseyer/nodered I welcome input and suggestions for improving my automations. But please drop a comment in GitHub if you have any questions or comment Feb 2, 00:32
  • My New Kinetic Light Switches by Joaquin Otero: Hi Main, what signal are you sending to the switches? I’m working on kinetic switches right now and I can’t make the switches work with an arduino uno and a transmitter. Thanks, Joa. Feb 1, 21:19
  • Raspberry Pi Pico – would you bother? by Pedro Restrepo: Price in the US, you ask? I got mine for $2 at Microcenter. And they asked me how many I wanted. It all depends on what you want to use it for. For my application, it’s perfect. I don’t need WiFi or Bluetooth. Jan 31, 17:04
  • General Itead Sonoff ramblings – now with Zigbee by Adam: Hello – wondering if you can help I’m trying to create 2 temperature cycles over a 24 hour period. 12 hours – held at 22-25 c 12 hours – held at 19-22 c I’m using the th16 with si7021 and a smart plug s26 hooked up to the heating device. Is this possible? Jan 31, 13:49
  • Pete Curlywurly Raspberry Pi Pico – would you bother? by Pete Curlywurly: Meet the guys behind the board – Gordon (responsible for product direction) and Luke (he designed the PIO) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vAkpm6rE6pk Jan 30, 19:55
  • Pete Curlywurly Raspberry Pi Pico – would you bother? by Pete Curlywurly: So many kids are going to enjoy learning with this – plugging in this to that and tweaking template programs https://shop.pimoroni.com/collections/pico One draw for kids could be vintage games in colour with sound output – Like Elite on a BBC micro. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vusGo64sDFk&t=1s …..or maybe Scramble? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Gn_RgDVuko Is this really about which chip is better? What they all can offer is amazing – We really do live in fun times and all of us have a front seat seeing in this new tech stuff. Jan 30, 17:00
  • Sonoff GK-200MP2-B WiFi IP Camera by Jonovich: Check your SSID and Password length, if either are over 16 characters it won’t work – I suspect the sound transfer software is truncating them with the resultant ‘password incorrect’ message. Jan 30, 16:35
  • Steve Lenehan Banggood 1.3″ OLED I2C Displays by Steve Lenehan: Now appearing on any purchases from AliExpress “From 11PM 31 December 2020, AliExpress is required by law to collect UK Value-Added Tax (VAT) at the applicable rate and remit to the UK tax authority when goods are sold to UK customers (i) where the goods are located outside the UK at the point of sale with a consignment value of GBP135 or less, or (ii) where the goods are in the UK at the point of sale, but sold by an overseas seller. For more information, please visit: https://www.gov.uk/guidance/vat-and-overseas-goods-sold-to-customers-in-great-britain-using-online-marketplaces-from-1-january-2021”. Means that all items automatically have 20% added to cost of goods including shipping charges even if they fall below the previous minimum for VAT (£15). Jan 30, 10:20
  • Banggood 1.3″ OLED I2C Displays by Garry Keogh: Same, I got 4 today to Ireland for €15. I like the case too, nice! Jan 29, 17:50
  • DrFragle and MrShark Banggood 1.3″ OLED I2C Displays by DrFragle and MrShark: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2934049 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2241662 Jan 29, 17:26
  • DrFragle and MrShark Banggood 1.3″ OLED I2C Displays by DrFragle and MrShark: add a pir or similar, so when you’re in front of it it will turn it on automatically, and that’s it 🙂 Jan 29, 17:21
  • DrFragle and MrShark Banggood 1.3″ OLED I2C Displays by DrFragle and MrShark: about 3.5€/item shipped from aliexpress: https://it.aliexpress.com/item/32777866923.html Jan 29, 17:17
  • Steve Lenehan Merry Christmas and a New Poco X3 by Steve Lenehan: If you wanted to get started while you await the tags you can always build the routines and then trigger them manually to check they are working correctly. Anything thats local to the phone eg turn on/off data, turn on/off wifi, get current gps location, switch on do not disturb, change phone volume settings etc. I do through Tasker. Anything that affects home automation eg. heating/hot water settings, turning off lights, checking windows closed etc I just send a message to node red with the tag id and use centralised routines to carry out tasks. I mainly use Join to carry messages but there are many alternatives such as SMS, Telegram, email. Some routines I use as a suggested starter 1) In the office I have a tag which after 5:30 will initiate a routine which gets current journey time from google and then sends a message home with my eta. Then if I hit traffic I can touch the tag in the car and it will recalculate the eta and resend if it has changed by more than 15 minutes. 2) By the bed there is a tag which turns on do not disturb, checks windows and doors are closed, turns off all lights, turns off the heating and shuts down my laptop. 3) by the local bus stop I have positioned a tag and it will initiate an api request to google to obtain next expected bus and alternatives. 4) by the front door is a tag which toggles wifi/data, turns on downstairs lights if off and sends a message with current water temperature for a shower on arriving home. These and many more routines which are location based and really lend themselves to NFC tags. Jan 29, 13:12
  • Banggood 1.3″ OLED I2C Displays by Felix: Yeah, shipping times are pretty bad with AE at the moment. I don’t need things very quickly usually though, so it’s ok in my case. I’ll give these a try: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32847040077.html 4 pieces for $16.38 and you can mix white and blue. Thanks for pointing out the display update over mqtt! I did not know about that yet and that’s really easy to use. Jan 29, 10:47
  • BigTimer by Liam: Yeah it seemed to me like one of the override options was intended to function that way, as there are many options! But alas… they all seem to reset. I am currently using workarounds for these cases similar to what you have described but it would be cleaner having this ability baked in 🙂 Jan 29, 00:08
  • Garry Keogh Banggood 1.3″ OLED I2C Displays by Garry Keogh: It sure is useful! I think I will 3D print a new face plate to replace the Tasmota light switch doing the MQTT currently. I will include a couple of buttons to allow jog or boost overrides and some feedback on the display using MQTT as in your blog post, as you suggest using a timer to power off. All nice and easy in NodeRed. Many thanks again! Garry Jan 28, 21:15
  • Peter Scargill Banggood 1.3″ OLED I2C Displays by Peter Scargill: Magic. Power on/off is useful. The displays don’t last forever. If you want to time out the display, use the power off command. It retains the data but turn off the display, a subsequent power on will restore the display.. another non-volatile command – DISPLAYROTATE with a value of 0,1,2 or 3. This just keeps getting better. Jan 28, 21:07
  • Garry Keogh Banggood 1.3″ OLED I2C Displays by Garry Keogh: I don’t know whether I should apologise or thank you Pete! You’re a gentleman and I am blaming my general anaesthetic this morning… I mean, I am a moron! See attached image. Sighs! Thanks a mil Pete! Jan 28, 20:47
  • Peter Scargill Banggood 1.3″ OLED I2C Displays by Peter Scargill: Here’s the output from the brand new board, Garry… Jan 28, 19:17
  • Peter Scargill Banggood 1.3″ OLED I2C Displays by Peter Scargill: Hi Garry – firstly make sure you’re on the latest DEV version of Tasmota as that’s all I’ve tried. 9.2.0.4 And just for you – I just took a virgin nodeMCU board, programmed it up from a local tasmota.bin file using TASMOTIZE.EXE on my PC, then using the “send config” section in Tasmotize, called it “display2” and set up MQTT as well…. that always gets it wrong and adds a dash and 4 numbers to the WiFi address – I’ve asked the author of Tasmotize to fix that… So then I upgraded it… just for ease, in 2 halves using a local file tasmota-minimal.bin.gz then a tasmota-display.bin.gz to the latest version…. then I set up the module under CONIGURATION in the webUI for DISPLAY2, D2 as SDA, then D1 as SCL and VOILA. Then in the webUI CONSOLE for DISPLAY2 – I send POWER 1 then DISPLAYMODE 0 then DISPLAY MODEL 7 All of the above is non-volatile so I waited a few secs as the board rebooted and then: DISPLAYTEXT [z]Hello World and out came Hello World. I’d add the image but this reply system being a bit archaic will only let me send one image at a time… Jan 28, 19:14
  • Raspberry Pi Pico – would you bother? by Alexander Nagy: I have several Raspberry Pi Zero W in my house, connected with several GPIO sensors using RPIEasy IoT app – they have more than enough processing power (even for a Domoticz+ MQTT server). Furthermore the 5V 110mA consumption and its ~35Celsius core temperature with passive cooling makes them perfect for IoT usecases. Of course the SD card is a weak spot. Honestly i am also using ESP8266 sensors in some places,i believe that every task has a proper CPU. 🙂 This new RPI Pico seems a little odd, i can imagine more than 2MB flash for start, but more HW versions will arise soon. Lack of wifi may be replaced by SPI LAN modules, such as a W5500, at least i hope. Jan 28, 19:04