This morning I received a package in the post which included a couple of Blitzwolf Smart sockets including the BW-SHP6 (2350w).
BW-SHP6 (2350w)
You may then recall that I’d been made aware that there was a “pro” version of the SHP6 model of smart socket – same name (exactly) but higher capacity and power monitoring – slightly different number on the case.
Well, I have one of the latter now – again simply called the – the Banggood link is above – this is NOT the same as the older, non-pro version as this one handles up to 3450W and of course the unit also has Power Monitoring (voltage, amps, watts). There seems to be no distinction in the part name or number – just the clear printed reference to max. wattage as above. As of August 2020, the high power BW-SHP6 is now powering my new air-conditioning system and using the Tasmota “pulsetime” command I’m confident it will not get left on if I go out and forget all about it. Thankfully the air-con remembers its settings on power cycling..
Meanwhile…
Blitzwolf BW-SHP5 (3680w)
In addition to that I now have the and this one, as well as handling 3680w and having power monitoring, also has two handy USB sockets on the underside – 5v at 2.1A total – and all of this can, if you like, be controlled by the Blitzwolf APP.
Setup took seconds – I simply plugged the sockets into our 220v mains outlets one at a time and started up the APP, telling it that I had new devices. Again within seconds the sockets (one at a time) were registered with the APP and once both were done, I checked the USB switching on the SHP5 and the power out and power monitoring on both. As we have electric heat back in Spain these will be ideal – smaller, less powerful smart sockets simply would not handle that amount of power. I believe our heating radiators are no more than 2KW worst case (and these are not very inductive loads) so I don’t expect any issues. As heat is where most of our winter electricity charges come from, the automomous timing and power monitoring ability will come in handy.
As most of you know I tend not to use cloud operation for essential features so despite the perfect operation you see above, I have already now converted these (using Tuya-convert) to run the Tasmota firmware – and I made use of the templates for these sockets at the Blakadder site. But that’s just me. The sockets run just fine out of the box with Alexa, power monitoring, scheduling and more – in the case of the BW-SHP5 including ..
Update July 2020
And thinking about it I have an immediate use for this BW-SHP-5 – I have an old timer in our main medroom in Spain and we have a loud and fairly powerful fan which circulates air through a pipe. It needs no special IOT control as it just runs twice a day – but the existing timer while being LCD, doe not handle summer/winter – and also the large timer takes up valuable space in a solitary power socket near the bed.
I’ve just set the timezone on the SHP5 aned set a pulsetime of 30 minutes – so the simplest of rules will allow the SHP5 to control the fan – and simultaneously allow my phone and tsblet a good overnight charge with automatic cut off using the built-in twin switched USB outputs.
pulsetime1 1900 rule1 on time#minute=660 do power1 1 endon on time#minute=1808 do power1 1 endon rule1 on
pulsetime2 14500
rule2 on time#minute=660 do power2 1 endon
rule2 on
I’ve just attempted to get tasmota onto a Blitzwolf BW-SHP11. I had no luck with Tuya-convert: I think the device comes loaded with the more recent Tuya firmware which won’t work (as per this post: https://github.com/ct-Open-Source/tuya-convert/issues/483).
So I flashed it using a serial interface by following these instructions: https://tasmota.github.io/docs/devices/BlitzWolf-BW-SHP4-UK-Version/
It works beautifully now… Voltage and power draw seems to be quite realistic.
There’s a caveat though to using this device… just like the SHP4 instructions above, you need to either hack a small section out of the back plate to expose the GND/RX/TX/VCC/GPIO0 pins, OR de-solder the PCB pins to the live and neutral prongs. I decided to do the latter (and subsequent re-solder) but am probably now going to commit this one to the sacrificial altar… and have a think about whether to hack out a section on the other 3 I have or return them for a refund to find an easier product to work with.
Hmm. tuyaconvert didn’t work for me either. I tried the instructions you mentioned for the SHP4 – I can’t get tasmotizer to get an answer from the serial port. I was just using a standard 3.3v flasher – for the first few seconds after power-on, holding GPIO0 to the ‘neutral’ pin on the plug (supposedly ground) when the USB flasher is plugged in. Hmm.
Afraid I can’t help you. Hope you worked it out. I often find that trying a few times helps!
Did either of you get anywhere with Tasmotizing the SHP11 sockets? I tried Tuya-convert, but wasn’t successful. It’s the first device I’ve tried Tuya-convert on, so I’m not sure if I’m doing something wrong, or if it’s just not going to work.
For the life of me, I can find no reference to the BW-SHP11 – if I’d tested them – I would be able to find them in my mail or on the blog so while the socket looks familiar I’m fairly sure I’ve not had one. I’ve converted other Blitzwolf sockets and lamps using Tasmota without issue yrt I cannot find a tenplate for the BW-SHP11 yet clearly Banggood are selling them. Hmm.
Pete (admin)
Just an update as this week I received two Blitzwolf BW-SHP11 smart sockets. I am happy to report that on 3 different UK 13A double sockets I tried them on, they cleared the On/Off rocker switches. I haven’t taken one apart or tasmotized it either but they do look well made. Sourced from Banggood. Spec
is 3520 W and 16A. Input 110 – 240 VAC. 3520 / 240 = 14.66 amps. !6A is at 220 VAC. Unfortunately I haven’t got time to tasmotize them yet to investigate further.
Hi Bob. I’m hoping to get one of these to play with – I’ll check with Banggood. So far I’m impressed with Blitzwolf – I have a few of their sockets and battery packs – as soon as I get my hands on the BW-SHP11 I’ll do the conversion.
I have pre-ordered a couple of of the higher powered ones to try out. I think there will be the usual issue of them fouling the switches on the common UK twin outlet 13A sockets given the adapter width of 55 mm and 60 mm high.
The quoted 16A and 3520W implies a voltage of 220. The nominal UK mains voltage is 240 VAC but is actually specified as 230 -6% / +10% which gives 216 to 253 volts. At 240 volt a current of 14.6A which is useful as it gives a bit of headroom on the 13A maximum rating of UK plug tops.
Hi Bob
Here in the Northeast of England I get as high as 250v, though recently I’ve been noticing around 240v. I do manage to control a 3KW immersion heater on a 13A wall socket without significant warming but I am using fairly heavy cable to be safe.
i have 13A universal adaptors everywhere yes and I go out of my way to get ptoducts that use EU plugs so I don’t need so many adaptors when I’m in Spain. Most of these smart sockets have UK equivalents – I do get some but prefer the EU versions generally.
morning Peter, those sockets look interesting. In the UK do you plug those Blitzwolf sockets into a 13A plug adapter? and then presumably you have some round pin plugs that fit the Blitzwolf socket. I am asking because I have a use for the functionality of the device and I was thinking of hacking (butchering) one to fit into a suitable waterproof box to use in-line in a cable. My application is for fixed 240 VAC soil heating cables.
Blitzwolf have a UK version in the pipe line, it’s on Banggood pre-order currently for under £10 with delivery. It’s called “BlitzWolf® BW-SHP11 16A 3520W UK Plug Smart Switch” and I have bought one with a late June release date.
It looks identical to the BW-SHP5 but with a UK plug
Magic- for higher loads, the fewer adaptors the better 🙂