This new (September 29, 2025) Fusion Series (Orb-ZBRBS) wall switch uses internally a Sonoff Mini-ZRBS-E controller module. And that is exactly WHAT? – I hear you say? Well, it’s a new, sleek, 2-channel Zigbee-controlled wall switch designed to control roller blinds.
The controller needs live and neutral in (slight problem for SOME wall switches which don’t have neutral available to them) and has two LIVE outputs controlled by an APP (eWeLink for example) or Home Assistant, or the up/down buttons on the front of the switch. Note the 1A MAX rating on the back of the unit.
And here it is… viewed from the back… standard switch mount – well mine is for the EU – Sonoff will have versions for different areas – and nothing against Sonoff – others do the same – but why don’t they use those two spare unmarked connectors on the right (above) as neutrals to be used with the load? I ended up using a choc-block for testing. I’m not entirely sure why they’ve put the live in a special connector – but no problem.
So I’ve hooked the unit to 240v power as you can see. That button at the top right has a small blue light underneath it which isn’t doing anything. It was flashing when I first plugged the unit in so I guess I missed the initial pairing opportunity. According to the manual – holding in that button for 5 seconds will start pairing mode again – and the pairing mode stays active for 3 minutes. I can achieve the same by pressing either of the front buttons 6 times within 6 seconds. Back to the back button – holding that for 10 seconds enters calibration mode. Normally, simply pressing either front button once would “open or close the curtains”. The box actually says “Smart Roller Shutter Wall Switch” but you get the general idea.
So, the Sonoff manual says you can use their APP with one of their Zigbee coordinators.
Well now, I neither have a Sonoff Zigbee coordinator hooked up nor do I care to use their app right now – so let’s try Home Assistant – to which I have permanently attached my SMLight SLZB-6 Zigbee coordinator and the Zigbee2MQTT add-on software (I have lots of Zigbee devices including Sonoff devices – let’s see how that goes). To test – I’ll use a simple 10w LED lamp (240v) hooked to one of the outputs and neutral (see my point about having spare neutrals).
No comments about the bare feet please. This would have been SO much neater had Sonoff attached those two spare connectors on the right to neutral.
Ok, so the next time I applied power to the unit- that blue light was flashing again – pairing mode. I quickly went off to Home Assistant Zigbee side panel in HA and pressed the PERMIT JOIN button (top right)..
Look what popped up..
A long unique number (I ALWAYS rename my zigbee devices to something more useable as soon as they are recognised. As I only have one of these mini-zrbs devices – I’ll call this one mini-zrbs-1 and update the Home Assistant Entity ID while I’m on.
But as that Zigbee2MQTT notice panel said, the device is unsupported – will anything happen when I momentarily press one of the front buttons on the switch?
What harm could there be in trying… I pressed the uppermost button on the front of the mini-zrbs-1.
And HEY, the relevant light came on and stayed on. Several seconds later, I pressed the same button again and the light went off. I then pressed the otherfront-side button and the other light came on. Several seconds later I pressed again and the light went off. I’m assuming the curtain controllers (I don’t have any) have automatic cut-outs. But if that’s the case – what is the “calibrate” option for? Read on…
Turn the first light on again – same button pressed again, light goes off. Turn same light on again but this time pressing the OTHER button – light 1 goes off – and the second light doesn’t come on. Second button pressed again, second light comes on. That makes lots of sense for blinds/curtain controller.
Remember I’m doing this in Home Assistant, using my SMLight Zigbee coordinator – the two outputs work just fine.. that is, you can control the 2 outputs. Turn either on and the corresponding load will turn on then by default, a couple of minutes later it will turn off by itself – hence the calibration setup. As I don’t have roller shutters that’s it for me.
Before stopping, I checked the device in Home Assistant to ensure the controls work the same way as the physical controls. I pressed the up arrow and the relevant output turned on and 2 minutes later turned off. The HA controls don’t yet reflect the output change of status to off and the down arrow remains dead but at the time of testing, this device is so brand new, I’m confident they’ll fix that.
The unit came complete with very comprehensive instructions in clear English complete with warnings about the installation being done by a suitable electrician which I am not.