Cheap as Chips Touch Switch

Cheap Touch SwitchesThose who (jokingly) complain that their wallets empty out every time they read my blog will be in heaven today… touch switches for 79 pence. YES – SEVENTY NINE PENCE – and backlit, too!! It’s a winner!!!

Could these be the world’s cheapest backlit touch-switches?

There aren’t any catches here – you can buy one at a time for slightly more – or 10 at a time – they have different colours etc.

My pal Jonathan introduced these to me a few days ago and I am SO glad he did!   So basically this is what you get – a panel maybe 20mm x 16mm (finger size!) and they have a 3-way 0.1” connector on the back – power, ground, output. Power is 3v6 to 6v. Operation is simple – bring your finger near the panel – it lights up and the output is on – move your finger away, it goes off.  If you want momentary action there’s a tiny pair of solder links for that, too.  The proximity switching works through plastic – maybe 3mm or more?

VideoSoundNow that last point is really important as these really are not too much use on their own, not that pretty and with a band at the top – but they do light up evenly and brightly and that’s the point – with a case with some kind of legend, maybe a negative sheet with shapes – you know, my friend and I were responsible for the world’s first video jukeboxes (no, really, we were) and one of our first designs was a Perspex front with a large negative behind it – black with clear track titles etc… at the front we had large amusement machine-type buttons.. If ONLY these things had been available at the time !!!!

Sorry the picture is so crap, this is pre-digital camera, pre-Internet. But you can see the backlit negative. The mechanical buttons could have been completely replaced with touch areas.

Today, I’m thinking – negative with down (left triangle), menu (menu) and up (right triangle) – three of these on an ESP and some kind of display (the cheap SD1306 OLEDs at under £3) and you have a marvellous menu control for whatever – lighting, heating, house control – you name it. Just a little visual imagination… or maybe if you’re lucky enough to have a tiny engraver – engraved in a plastic front panel deep enough to let the light through – the list goes on. See what can be done with star-trek style control panels.. This example of a backlit panel got me fired up…

Want to take my Jukebox to futuristic extremes – check this out – stunning – and you could do this with these touch panels, a bit of plastic and a negative.. for VERY little outlay…

Oh, you want to see these in operation – I made a video and near the end of this short video where I talk about other stuff in the postbag…  and here is the cheapest price I could find – including postage (well, the postage is free) 0.767 pence each…  so many possibilities…

And - as it happens (see comments)  as we look through the adverts it turns out there is a similar (though the chip appears different) non-backlit version which is a lot cheaper.  Do your own backlight? Edge lighting?  Check this AliExpress link out.. Worth a play? I've ordered 20 - will let you know in a matter of weeks!

See my YouTube video.


44 thoughts on “Cheap as Chips Touch Switch

    1. Oh I am SO glad you mentioned this - BECAUSE the one thing I don't like or would like improved is the ability to be normally ON... ie for doorbells etc. now - YOUR board (which does not say if it is proximity - but let's assume it is.... has an option for normally on or off.

      SO - out with my microscope... chip says 02a-4 preceded by circle with 2 lines in it... not remotely the same or so it would seem.... in your board pins 1 or 3 get shorted to pin 2... for normally on or off.... on mine -
      pins 2 and 3 shorted make for momentary operation....

      I was hoping you were right as I'd really like normally on...

      Any thoughts?

      1. If you notice there are 2 jumper slots. One is for toggle or switch functionality and the other is for "high" or "low" sensitivity. I have them installed in my house inside "glass" type wall switches that also house ESP and a small Solid relay. Where is a single light I use the "high" sensitivity setting while on a couple of occasion where I have more then one touch sensor within the same enclosure I use the "low" sensitivity. "Low" sensitivity is near the distance showing in your vid. "High" sensitivity is almost twice as long

        In this pic of a sensor similar to the one on your vid :

        I see a blank pad that might do just what you want. Is this the case with the one you are holding ?

        1. Yes. The 2 pads on this one can be shorted to give you momentary operation - but that's the only option I can find - i.e. toggle - or switch. I'd dearly love to have push for off, release for on - for night indicators - but hey ho, lots we can do with them as they are.

      2. Ok, I checked and mine will definitely not invert operation....

        Anyway, so now we have the cheapest NON-LIT UP touchswitches - but not from your supplier Dmitri - AliExpress- FIVE for £1... so maybe in cents a little higher than that. Cheaper prices for higher quantities.. I've ordered 5 to have a play with... to see if they are proximity - not a lot of use if not - but at that price it is worth a play.. here's the link

        1. Cool !!! Free shipping is the main game in the small money gadgets. 🙂
          BTW I had some (very sporadic) mishaps in the unit I installed in the utility room when the 3-phase 27Kw heat pump kicked in. I see the lit version you have on hand is advertised as "Strong anti-interference" so this might be a plus (?)

  1. Hi All,

    I've just installed some cheap wall mounted 433MHz RF switches (powered by a tiny 27A type 12v battery). These are about £3.50 from Aliexpress. They look a bit cheap but they're doing the trick for me at home where their signal is picked up by an ESP8266 running OpenMQTTGateway which translates the RF signal to a message payload on an MQTT topic. This gives me a 'girlfriend compatible' manual override for lighting and heating control etc.

    I intend rolling out some more of these and will provide photos and details when I'm back home next week if there's any interest.

    I mention them as they worked out of the box and all programmed into my Pimatic Home Automation system in a couple of minutes. I'm also playing with 433 MHz window/door reed switches and am awaiting delivery of some PIR sensors and smoke detectors that also work on 433. I prefer ESP/wireless stuff as it's more reliable and gives better RF coverage but I'm getting quick results and additional functionality really quickly and cheaply with this 433 stuff combined with the RF to MQTT gateway.

    Photo attached shows the internals of a 3 button switch (they do a 1, 2 and 3 button model). There's facility to solder in a better antenna if necessary at the top of the board. The push panels for the switches hinge down over what you can see here and click in place. They come with self adhesive sticky pads and type 27A batteries. The sticky pads say '3M' on them but I'd imagine that's just the QC sign off by a hungry chinese man rather than the real thing. Given the light weight of the switches, they seem sticky enough though ...

      1. Certainly! Links as requested.

        Open MQTT Gateway
        This translates from 33RF/Infra Red/BLE to MQTT, and the other way round. I've got it running on one of my favourite Wemos D1 Mini ESP8266 boards with cheap 433 RX/TX modules connected to D1 and D2 pins.

        Cheap 433 MHz wall panel remote transmitters (1,2 and 3 button)

        Cheap 433 MHz 'door bell' button.

        The door bell style one is more substantial and feels nicer to use but doesn't look as tidy. It's designed for a panic alarm or similar so you'd need to get vinyls made up to cover the alarm symbol if used for something else.

        I've got a few of each of the above and I simply press each button, see what code comes up on the MQTT topic and then implement a 'rule' triggered upon that payload for subsequent transmissions in my Pimatic home automation system. I then wrote a bash script called 'sendRF' which publishes MQTT to allow me to trigger the outbound RF on the OpenMQTTGateway for emulating button presses for switching Energenie sockets and the like.

          1. Strange...

            My actual wireless doorbell at home (not sure of spec as it was from my pre-IoT days) didn't register on any of my 433 kit but I have 3 of the above 433 door bell switches from Aliexpress and they all chirp out nice working unique codes every time...

            1. Today I received some 433 MHZ PIR sensors. They look well built (better than I was expecting from Ali Express). In 30 seconds I had one hooked up to my home automation system and now I have automatic light switching (when at home) and automatic intrusion alerting when I'm not at home. My "at home" logic works on a check of a virtual switch as a manual override and an "nmap" linux command searching for the MAC address of my mobile phone or 'er indoors mobile phone on the home WiFi network. If neither of our phones are connected to the WiFi then we're probably out.

              In the old days you had to cable up all this kit but 433 makes speed of installation and availability completely different.

              I think I buy too much cheap chinese IoT stuff...but it's fun playing with it. I'll provide links to the PIR sensors if anyone's interested. I'm awaiting delivery of 433 RF smoke detectors too...

                1. Link to the YobangSecurity 433 MHz PIR sensors from AliExpress


                  £6.87 each, free shipping to UK

                  They came with 9v battery fitted and screws and a angle poise mounting bracket. Quality seems okay but I'm interested in how long the battery life is. There are various adjustments apparently inside to change some preferences but I've just installed 2 at home with stock settings for now.

    1. sorry for the (maybe) dumb question?
      having more than one of those units, how the gateway can discriminate which button of which unit has been pressed?

        1. thanks!! So this code is embedded in the "frimware" of each unit... let's hope to be lucky and not find 2 with same code 🙂

          1. Well with 7 digits - assuming they are decimal and assuming Darren didn't mean 7 bits - it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out what are the chances of coming up against the same number twice...

            1. Indeed Peter, unconsciously my engineer mind visualized that answer as 7-bits so I translate Darren's reply as 0-127 😀

  2. Hello Pete,
    Apologies if I missed it in previous post, but can you provide a link for the case you are using?



        1. Oh that one - the really good, cheap one with grates on the side, ideal for thermostats, that everyone would like.... they stopped selling them.

          They were 70mmx70mmx20, with side ventilation and just a few ££...

          This looks like an alternative but is deeper (28mm) and VERY expensive for what it is.

          Decent looking cases - especially wall mounted cases at a reasonable price remain a rarity - it is as if the plastic designers of the world have no taste at all.

          This one is bigger - but I think it would work nicely on a wall...

          1. I bought a couple of batches of these little 80x80x27mm plastic housings from AliExpress which I use for temperature sensor / ESP8266 devices


            I don't think they look too bad and they work out about £3.60 each including shipping but like a lot of china kit, every time I buy them I pay a slightly different price.

  3. Ok so the cheap touch switches (non-backlit) turned up... and I've been testing them. They do not seem QUITE as sensitive as the backlit versions - when run through plastic cases but they do work well and they are CHEAP.

    I really don't understand the logic of the design however. They have a bright red LED on the back which reacts to the switch being touched. It is utterly useless as it is on the back and won't be seen in operation!!! It would have cost no more to have a simple hole in the board and reversed LED so that the light shone through the FRONT.

  4. So you have choices - normally open - normally closed (ie inverted output) - that's one lot of links - the others are for latched or non-latched operation - by default with all links open - they are non-latched. I think the larger pads are for another totally useless LED 🙂 I guess if you could put a rectangular tube slightly larger than the board and fasten all of this to a red frosty perspex panel it might be possible to use the onboard indicator as some kind of frame light. Better to remove it and use another led on a lead I think.

    But I'm being picky - these are really cheap! Bearing in mind that mechanical alternatives to a controller usually involve debouncing software - they could make for very simply switches. AND... they cost me under 20p each inc post.

    1. I'm taking that back about it not being so sensitive - after a short delay it seems to have become MORE sensitive - too much in fact - in that putting it on the back of a plastic container will in itself trigger the thing.... sensing distance is 9mm

  5. Hi Peter.
    Thanks for sharing these lovely things.

    I use it behind my magic mirror in my bathroom
    Have a pi & mqtt to turn on my ventilation system.

    One small disadvance is that they don't work bidirectional.
    So if mqtt makes the gpio pin low the led doesn't turn off.
    Maybe somebody knows a work around.


    1. What if you used another GPIO pin for the VCC. When dropping it low, it would reset the switch, would it not? Still waiting on mine to arrive, to test the theory. Of course, it consumes another pin.

  6. Just received backlit switches ordered after reading this post, and they are nearly perfect! Thank you Peter for sharing your discovery. My only dream to make these switches absolutely perfect is one extra input pin, so the switch can be used as indicator. This would allow to build really cute SpaceTrack-like dashboards. Maybe one day I'll remove front cover and try to figure out is it posible to solder input wire to LED....

  7. I purchased the cheap 20 piece set from AE. . They arrived with from what I can tell is the wrong chip on them. The marking is 8233 on the chip. When I plug them into the arduino 5V/gnd and a data pin, they get very hot quickly and burn out. Not really sure how you could manufacture the wrong chip on the board and have that pass through even the worst QC processes.

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